[DML] Digest Number 176
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

[DML] Digest Number 176



Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are 3 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. electrical problems relating to fuel pump
           From: Joel Pash <joelpash@xxxxxxxxx>
      2. Re: DeLorean with twin turbo
           From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. Re: question about cooling fans
           From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 1
   Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 12:59:56 -0700 (PDT)
   From: Joel Pash <joelpash@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: electrical problems relating to fuel pump

Sorry for the long email, but maybe someone can help
me.  Several months ago my Delorean started to blow
the RPM relay fuse (when starting the car) resulting
in not starting.  At first I thought it was the alarm
that was causing the problem (the previous owner had
an alarm installed - not very well) so I disconnected
the alarm.  The problem kept happening, so I drove
around with spare fuses as a temporary solution.  

Last week I was driving and the car died in the middle
of the street.  This was the first time that had
happened - it usually would blow the fuse when I tried
to start only.  Sure enough the fuse was blown, and
the holder was all melted.  So I bypassed the fuse by
cutting it out and connecting the two wires.  I drove
the car home no problem.

I thought the problem may be the fuel pump drawing too
much current, so I replaced it right away.  When I
tried to start the car, it didn't start again.

Here is what I know for sure:

a) If I open up the RPM relay fuse and force the
solenoid inside to contact, the fuel pump runs.  The
solenoid does not move however, when I turn the key
(it is obviously supposed to.) This relay is working
because I have two of them and one of them is brand
new.

b) I thought that I had traced the problem back to the
main fuel relay being blown.  So I replaced that.  I
tried to start the car but I noticed the main fuel
replay fuse (fuse #1) was blown.  So I replaced that. 
The car started and ran for about 5 minutes, then
died.

c) The fuses in the fuse box are all higher amp fuses
than they are supposed to be.  I just noticed this
yesterday when reading the workshop manual so I
replaced them.

d) Most of the relays in the car are Bosch, so I
understand this means they have been updated at some
time.

I have a few thoughts.  First of all, I need to
determine what is causing a short in my electical
system.  I originally thought it was the fuel pump but
it is obviously not that because that has been
replaced.  Perhaps it is the fuel filter?

Second, why were all the fuses wrong.  Perhaps the
previous owner replced 20 amp fuses with 30 amp fuses,
10s with 20s, etc, to stop them from blowing.  Perhaps
this is why relays may be getting fried.

The thing that concerns me is that before I was just
blowing the RPM relay fuse.  Now I am not even blowing
fuses, just other stuff.  And the car doesn't run. 
Before I changed the fuel pump it did.  (I also tried
putting back the old fuel pump, but the same problem.)

I have gone through all of the wires with a volt meter
and I can't find any wires that are not conducting. 
Maybe I am doing it wrong?  Does anyone have any
ideas?

Thanks very much.

Joel


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 2
   Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 14:59:01 -0400 (EDT)
   From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean with twin turbo

On Wed, 16 Aug 2000 bluevelvet420@xxxxxxx wrote:

> 0-60 in 4.2 seconds, finally the deloreans performance matches its
> appearance. i wonder if you got oneof those NOS crate engines and put
> on the turbo manifold twin turbo how fast it would go.... -greg

Even #502 isn't that fast.  If it manages to produce 250HP (which is a
reasonable guess, assuming the engine has some upgrades besides just the
turbos), that would be enough to make the car accelerate 0-60 in under 6
seconds.  That's pretty speedy and faster than any $25,000 car of the
period- although, of course, the price would probably be much higher for
the turbo version.

To go 0-60 in 4.2 seconds, the DeLorean would require approximately 400
HP.  I think that is beyond the capabilities of the PRV in street trim.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 3
   Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 16:52:17 -0400
   From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: question about cooling fans

brownalizat@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

> My husband and I noticed that our 81 delorean VIN 07003 which has always
run
> cool, overheated last nite.  The cooling fans would not come on even
when we
> replaced the coolant (which was empty).  Jeff let it run for a while and
> noticed no leaks but the fans would not kick on.

First, find out what caused the initial overheat.  This can be an
electrical
problem, the simplest would be if the fan-fail bypass came loose.  Look in
the
DMC News (below) for its location in the relay compartment.  The problem
might
also be a bad temp sensor, or a blown fuse.

It is less likely, but still possible, that this was caused by air in the
system.  Perhaps you were low on coolant and the fan control sensor was
dry.
This happens sometimes.  Perhaps when you refilled it with coolant there
was
enough air trapped that the sensor is dry now.  This also happens
sometimes,
although it can be cured by bleeding the system (described in back
issues).
Maybe you had both happen to you, but the odds are against it.

I think you should look for an electrical problem, starting at the
fan-fail
bypass.

Start by going here:

http://www.dmcnews.com/zine.html

And download the first issue of the DMC News 'Zine.  It had instructions
and a
diagram for fixing many cooling fan problems.

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 7 years




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


<<attachment: winmail.dat>>



Home Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN 


Copyright ProjectVixen.com. All rights reserved.

Opinions expressed in posts reflect the views of their respective authors.
DMCForum Mailing List Archive  DMCNews Mailing List Archive  DMC-UK Mailing List Archive

This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated