Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 12 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. performance (from the borla/flowmaster guy) From: bluevelvet420@xxxxxxx 2. Re: Borla/Flowmaster Exaust systems From: "Nate!!" <madpiper@xxxxxxxxxxx> 3. Heater Control Valve From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx> 4. Re: cooling fans From: Richard Strecker <dmc1219@xxxxxxx> 5. Re: Front License plate bracket From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx 6. Re: Fuel filter From: Richard Strecker <dmc1219@xxxxxxx> 7. ADMIN - Responding to FORSALE ads From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 8. Re: Doors open too FAST From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> 9. Re: 400 mile ebay D From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> 10. Re: Rear tire torque spec. From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> 11. Re: Re: Inertia switch bypass From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> 12. Re: cooling fans From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 19:40:15 EDT From: bluevelvet420@xxxxxxx Subject: performance (from the borla/flowmaster guy) basically i was wondering, are better camshafts, headers, spark plugs, alternators, and fuel systems available for the delorean?? and im just assuming that new cams, headers, plugs, etc would cost less (all of them together) than any new engine or the island TT system from turbo manifolds inc (5,200) ALSO who is coming up with those NOS (new old stock) engines i have heard about? and does anyone have the specs (0-60, HP, torque, etc) and price for them? thanks a bunch, really sorry to have to clutter the list greg ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 19:51:31 -0600 From: "Nate!!" <madpiper@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Borla/Flowmaster Exaust systems only one question... WHY? at that whopping 130 hp the stock exhaust is perfect... for that matter, I would dare to bet that completely opening the exhaust system wouldn't net another 5 hp... and in all likelyness, it may cost HP. ----- Original Message ----- From: <bluevelvet420@xxxxxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Monday, May 08, 2000 12:18 AM Subject: [DML] Borla/Flowmaster Exaust systems > Hello all, > I was planning on thinking about getting a Borla exaust system or a > Flowmaster 40 series muffler, leaning towards borla ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 09 May 2000 18:30:50 PDT From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Heater Control Valve Hey Group: New problem. The vacuum activated switching mechanism which allows the coolant to flow into the heater core on my car is stuck in the 80% open range. Question: Is there a replacement I can pick up locally and get thing back together within a day? Any help with a cross-over part number is appreciated. Thanks, Brian #16584 ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 21:43:49 -0400 From: Richard Strecker <dmc1219@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: cooling fans Been There Done That..... Yes, in order to get the motor out you have to remove the bracket & to get the bracket it is easier to remove the radiator too. Unless you happen to be a contortionist with triple jointed wrists and very small hands. Good Luck! ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 21:47:18 EDT From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: Front License plate bracket In a message dated 5/9/00 4:20:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dmc-delorean-2000@xxxxxxxxxx writes: << didnt come with a front license plate braket. i have owned my car for 2 months and think it time i get one befor i get a tiket. i have tried pjgrady and they have 2 but are a little high priced for me for now,($37-$49) >> That may not be your only problem. I got a S.S. bracket for around $38. then found the nuts badly rusted on the fascia when I went to install it. First one, the head snapped off. Second one spins. Third, I didn't bother. Your car is from the northeast like mine (in NJ) so you may have the same problem. What did I do? HA! Nothing! I took it through inspection with one plate. The other plate visible inside, on the parcel shelf, still in the bag. They told me that was ok. A local cop who is a friend told me the same thing. So far, so good. (3 months) And my little town is teeming with police cars. Especially at 3 a.m. when I'm frequently going home from work. I'm glad I have an "excuse" not to have it on there... looks better off. Our course, you might not be so lucky. I might not always be either, which is why I'm not parting with my unused bracket! -Wayne "Living the dream!" 11174 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 21:48:26 -0400 From: Richard Strecker <dmc1219@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Fuel filter The "rubber" is just a covering for the pressure carrying plastic tube. It can crack & fall off without affecting the pressure characteristics of the plastic tube. The rubber is there to provide protection for the plastic. It's just not a good idea to let the hoses deteriorate to that point. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 21:30:06 -0500 From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: ADMIN - Responding to FORSALE ads List: Please reply directly to the poster when responding to for-sale postings. Inquiries to the list are just going to be dumped. This probably means that you will have to pick their email address out of the posting rather than hitting "reply". Sorry. dave ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 8 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 21:12:31 -0400 From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Doors open too FAST >From your description it sounds like 2 splines negative should do the job. "We're here to help you" DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com> . ----- Original Message ----- From: <Delorean17@xxxxxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 7:33 PM Subject: [DML] Doors open too FAST > Hello list, > I know it is very touchy so would 1 or 2 notches to > the trick? if anyone has had experience please let me know. > > Thank you all, > Dave > #2496- ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 9 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 21:55:18 -0400 From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: 400 mile ebay D Aaron, If the engine dies when the doors are locked you have a bad main ground. To prevent the door lock solenoids from burning out, possibly locking you in or out of the car, disconnect the door lock module. "We're here to help you" DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com> . ----- Original Message ----- Subject: [DML] 400 mile ebay D > Well my brother in law checked out the Delorean in Franklin > for sale on ebay. The radio does not work, is that a major > problem? Could that be a fuse? Another quirk the car has is > if you use the power door locks while the car is running it > kills the engine, what does that mean ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 10 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 23:05:51 -0400 From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Rear tire torque spec. First of all be sure to instruct the tire facility not to use an air gun to tighten the lug nuts. All the lug nuts, both front and rear, should be torqued to 60 foot pounds. For the best performance and maximum thread wear you should try to seek out a tire facility that can do an "on the car" spin balance. "We're here to help you" DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com> . Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 11:40 AM Subject: [DML] Rear tire torque spec. > What is the correct torque settings for the rims? Also, what about the tire > balancing, is there something special for that also? Please let me know...DMC ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 11 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 23:04:47 -0400 From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Re: Inertia switch bypass Mike, Dump a can of Bars stop leak in your cooling system, that should keep your pump leak for a while. "We're here to help you" DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com> . ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 9:06 AM Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Inertia switch bypass > Unfortunately, now my water pump has developed a small leak. > > - Mike Substelny > VIN 01280, 7 years ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 12 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 23:33:32 -0400 From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: cooling fans Remove the following items to drop the fan housing without removing the radiator/condenser. Remove the left and right radiator support brackets 1/3/1 fig.19, the radiator duct 8/5/0 fig 1 and the anti-roll bar 5/1/0 fig 18. "We're here to help you" DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com> . ----- Original Message ----- From: Travis Graham <thgraham@xxxxxxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Monday, May 08, 2000 1:15 PM Subject: [DML] cooling fans > Hello list, > > I'm trying to remove my right cooling fan (the blade is broken) from my D. > Here's the problem: I can't seem to get it out (with relative ease) without > breaking something else of course! >> Is this correct? What do I really have to do to remove this darn motor! > > Thanks! > Travis > #06344 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________
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