[DML] Digest Number 1831
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[DML] Digest Number 1831
- From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: 12 Jan 2004 09:56:14 -0000
There are 21 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. MANUAL SHIFTING PROBLEMS (5spd)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Door Lock Problem--Frozen?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: Door Lock Problem--Frozen?
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Frozen Comments
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
6. ATTN: Joe Palatinus
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Further PRV History
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: How much to do it all a second time around?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
9. Trip To DMCH
From: "drhdmc12" <drhdmc12@xxxxxxxxx>
10. "Dummy" button's in the center console
From: "drhdmc12" <drhdmc12@xxxxxxxxx>
11. ADMIN : Virus Stuff
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: john hervey and specialty auto
From: Marcel Bourgon <mbourgon@xxxxxxxxxx>
13. RE: MANUAL SHIFTING PROBLEMS (5spd)
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Correction: Further PRV History
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Permacast wheels?
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Door Lock Problem--Frozen?
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
17. RACK UPDATE
From: george caprita <dobedoc2000@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Correction: Further PRV History
From: "Steve Abbott" <abbotts@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. RE: Door Lock Problem--Frozen?
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Free Advice--It isn't Free to Anybody!
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: "Dummy" button's in the center console
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 22:09:49 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
Mark,
After I clean all the old grease off the shifting mechanism and do any
adjustment I use axle grease to re lubricate all that because it won't get
hard with the cold and won't melt off when it gets hot. You may also want to
spray a Teflon type grease on it to soak into the tight spots. The shifting
pivot bolt may also need some cleaning and grease due to age and being where
it is it gets dirty. Then the linkage going into the trans. I also use a
Teflon base lubricate in the manual transmission to better lubricate it.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: DMCVIN6683 [mailto:dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2004 5:26 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
I know there are a number of shift patterns today but they all seem to
rest in the middle of the neutral position of every new car i have
driven and every old car i have driven. I never had a cars shifter rest
anywhere but the middle of neutral.
For any unfamiliar drivers should be told of all of the different
things to find on any car no matter if it is a Delorean or ford escort,
thats how things get broken if the drivers are not told!
Mark
On Saturday, January 10, 2004, at 03:48 PM, deloreanernst@xxxxxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 1/10/04 4:28:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> samuel_yahoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
>
>> Do you drive any other manuals? Any manual I've driven requires you to
>> move left to get to 1st and 2nd and right to get to 5th. This is the
>> standard form for manual to operate.
>
> There are a number of shift patterns in the road today. What I
> learned a
> stick shift on went to the junkyard decades ago! Still, it'd be nice
> if the
> "lift" showed on the knob diagram for unfamiliar drivers. When I take
> my D to the
> shop, I always remind them how it shifts into reverse... and how to
> close the
> engine cover!
> -Wayne
> 11174
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
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>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
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>
>
Come see all of my Photo's at my Website.
http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 18:53:45 -0800 (PST)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: MANUAL SHIFTING PROBLEMS (5spd)
Just wondering if someone can actually answer my post about my trouble shifting and a correct adjustment? Is there only one cable to adjust the shifting pattern(two nuts on it) or is there something else I should be looking for? I can't get it into all the gears smoothly especially reverse and fifth. Again It's either 2nd, 3th, 4th, 5th but no 1st or reverse or 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and reverse but no 5th, there seems to be no middle ground with consistency emphasis CONSISTENCY. It's either to far right or to far to the left, to me. Right now the shifter in Neutral is in the middle it does not go into REVERSE(only 30% of time) and yes I am lifting up and to the left on it and fifth is not smooth.
Contrary to belief, almost all the post I've seen so far have been on how to shift--I KNOW HOW TO DO THAT! After all I've had my Delorean over 4 years now lets hope i've been doing it right. But it is good for people to know who may be unfamiliar with Deloreans, so I can understand that, however, I was just wondering if anybody has had experience with a similar problem?????
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 03:16:57 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Lock Problem--Frozen?
You cannot (at least you are not supposed to be able to) lock the
doors if the door is not completly closed. What I mean by that is the
front and rear locks of the door must BOTH be in the second locking
position. My guess is because of the cold the rubber door seals are
hard and the door does not close all the way. You might need new
(softer) door seals and/or you need to adjust the anchor pins for the
door. Do not force the lock, you will just bend and stretch things out
of proper adjustment.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, PRC1216@xxxx wrote:
> Today I went out to my D and decided to run it and take it around the
> neighborhoood for a quick spin. I got in and locked my driver
door, then tried to
> lock the passenger door but I could not push down the button no
matter how hard
> I tried. I went out and tried to lock it from the outside, but when I
> turned the key the stainless around the lock seemed to push in a
little then pop
> back out. I stopped when I saw this and decided to ask what others
thought the
> problem was. Do you think the cold, 15 degree weather I have here in
> Cincinnati is the problem? I wouldn't think so. Or should I be
looking for
> something else? The red wire is unplugged from my door lock module
by the way, so
> I don't think that is the problem.
>
> Patrick
> 1880
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 21:59:30 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Door Lock Problem--Frozen?
Patrick,
Yes as everyone knows the door locks are a problem. In the module is 2
relay's that are never replaced that will burn up, a diode that will blow
and the circuit breaker is rated to high. If the black module is brought up
to date and you don't have a solenoid problem and don't lock the car from
the inside then you shouldn't have a problem. I had 11004 for 5 years and no
problems after a $35.00 update which I do.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
Delorean parts
-----Original Message-----
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx [mailto:PRC1216@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2004 5:10 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Door Lock Problem--Frozen?
Today I went out to my D and decided to run it and take it around the
neighborhoood for a quick spin. I got in and locked my driver door, then
tried to
lock the passenger door but I could not push down the button no matter how
hard
I tried. I went out and tried to lock it from the outside, but when I
turned the key the stainless around the lock seemed to push in a little then
pop
back out. I stopped when I saw this and decided to ask what others thought
the
problem was. Do you think the cold, 15 degree weather I have here in
Cincinnati is the problem? I wouldn't think so. Or should I be looking
for
something else? The red wire is unplugged from my door lock module by the
way, so
I don't think that is the problem.
Patrick
1880
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 14:55:13 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Frozen Comments
I too thought I would get my D out into the cold. Here in NJ the
temp was up to 12F (record lows) but the sun was out and otherwise
beautiful.
First I noticed the door struts were like they weren't even there. I
had gotten some new ones from DMCH for Christmas so on they went.
They work great - however - if anyone has a bent strut mount from
once having had a strut that was too long, these new ones may not
install on the car without doing the repair to straighten the mount.
The mounting receptacle on the strut is cut at an angle, unlike the
ones from the past, and the strut will not angle or move back enough
to mount on the door pin. Mine was really close and it is clear that
I should probably do the repair on my driver's door.
After about 25 miles of fun countryside driving, on my way back to
the house, I was thinking to myself everything seems in good order,
the speedometer was still working fine - that's great, when, at that
very moment, clunk, the needle feel like a rock to the peg. I guess
an angle drive is in my future.
When I got home I began to check around, you know the routine, and I
noticed the plastic end tanks on the radiator were seeping, ugh! Now
to lock/unlock the D with the auto lock - and the passenger side
will not unlock without help. Something it never did in warmer
weather.
My lesson? Colder weather, especially the record low kind, may be
hazardous to your D's health.
Harold McElraft - 3354
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 04:11:23 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ATTN: Joe Palatinus
As I was repairing a cracked thermostat housing tonight (different
manufacturer, not DeLorean), I was reminded of your recent predicament
and wondered how your repair turned out. So, how did your repair turn out?
Bill Robertson
#5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 06:20:06 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Further PRV History
Major aluminum castings are identical among Peugeot, Renault, and
Volvo installations. Differences are in bolt on accessories.
The original engine displaced 2.66 liters (rounded up to 2.7 liters).
Hence engine ID's such as "B27" (Volvo) and "Z7V" (Renault). At the
turn of the decade it was bored out to 2.84 liters -- that's the
engine purchased by DMC. Cylinder heads are not transferrable between
2.7 and 2.8 liter versions. Other bolt on components are transferrable.
Early PRV's were produced with carbureted manifolds. By the late
1970's Bosch K-Jetronic was standard. Note that until Volvo's 1988
re-design, fuel injection occured in the cylinder heads, not the manifold.
CIS (Constant Idle Speed) and Lambda Sond systems were later additions
that did not alter core engine design. Later PRV's were also equipped
for EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) and air injection, though DMC did
not use either (the capped off port in our U pipes is where EGR would
normally enter).
By utilizing different height pistons, PRV's were produced with both
high and low compression ratios. Only low compression versions were
legal for US import until the late 1980's.
Non-DeLo owning Americans are mostly familiar with the PRV through
Volvo's 260 and 760 series ("B27" and "B28" engine ID's). It was
nevertheless not a common engine over here, overwhelmingly outnumbered
by the 240/740 4 cylinder series (totally different engine with no
transferrable components). It is very possible that a Volvo dealership
may have never seen a PRV.
Volvo itself engineered major modifications to the PRV design in 1988,
creating the even fire, very high compression (10.5:1) B280, still
produced in Douvrin, France. Through its Renault connection, Chrysler
imported this re-designed engine for the Eagle Premier series (not to
be confused with the completely different AMC Eagle series). Very
little is transferrable between the B280 and the B27/B28, but there
are a *FEW* xRef's -- don't forget to look up circa 1990 Eagle Premier
or Volvo Bertone in a parts house computer if early 1980's 260/760
does not provide any hits. For example, even though its ignition is
different, a set of B280 spark plug wires will fit our cars. B280 fuel
injection is Bosch LH-Jetronic -- totally incompatible.
Please note what John Hervey pointed out: even though all PRV's may
share common gauge sender ports, THE SENDERS THEMSELVES ARE NOT
COMMON. The type of instrument being driven at the other end
determines which sender is used. Gauges of course vary between
manufacturers, and even between year models for the same manufacturer.
Hence only the thread patterns are identical. Calibrations, sender
design, etc may well be different.
Note also that PRV threads are British Standard pattern (BSPT, common
in Europe), not National Pipe pattern (NPT, common in US). The two
look deceptively similar, but they are different and are not
interchangeable. Most fittings stocked over here will NOT fit. For
example, it is difficult to find an over-the-counter hose barb to
replace the thermostat bleed screw. Senders for after market gauges
also will not fit. BSPT fittings and adapters between the two patterns
are available mail order.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@xxxx> wrote:
> Dale,
> I will give you my answer. The ( engine ) was built in Douvrin,
France not
> the cars and called the PRV 6 engine because of the joint venture.
> Let me clarify engine, Short block w/o heads and intake and other major
> parts, then you have a long block that will have heads and in some cases
> intakes but made different for different markets. Over here the
intake isn't
> part of the short block and maybe part of the long block. Then you
have all
> the instrumentation, sensors, and switches which have to be different to
> match up with the countries that the engine is going into. So: Volvo
will
> have it's differences from the Renault and the Peugeot because they are
> going into different cars and markets. The problem in sourcing parts
on the
> engine is which market was the part originally made for and how did De
> Lorean adapt to it. Example, A temperature sensor for the Delorean
using an
> AC Delco dash will have a different resistance normally than the
same sensor
> in a Volvo using a Volvo dash or who ever makes it for them. They
screw into
> the same hole but have different compatibility characters. So you
have to
> find or luck across the right sensor or equipment that Delorean used.
> Another example is the CV boots we have were originally designed for the
> Audi and made by Lobro. The car is full of this kind of what fits
and works
> and who was the prime company it was built for.
> Delorean in most cases was not the initial market.
> Take a look at this article on PRV6.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
> Delorean Parts
>
> http://members.fortunecity.com/perttim/therenault30file/id20.html
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: D F [mailto:funkstuf@xxxx]
> Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 11:06 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: [DML] Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference
>
>
> This brings up a question.
> I here that this engine cross references with Volvo parts, I heart
that it
> is a Renault, and I hear that it is a Peugot.
> What's the real story here? What other cars was this engine
actually in. I
> have heard more about it being a Renault than a Volvo...
> So, who knows the truth.. Where was this engine built?
> Dale Funk
> 4984
>
>
> >From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxx>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: [DML] Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference
> >Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 05:10:40 -0000
> >
> >I had a fun experience this week trying to find an oil pressure
> >sender replacement locally. On the cross-parts reference, a Volvo
> >part is listed. So I called a Volvo dealership and asked them to
> >send me the part, well, they said it was replaced with a newer part
> >and could overnight it to me for free, so I purchased it for about
> >$30. It wasn't even close. Wrong size threads, and had a spring
> >loaded piston on it. So, I would like to warn everyone else that the
> >part number in the cross reference list is wrong and won't thread
> >into your block.
> >
> >I called up about 4 Volvo dealerships here in Central PA asking for
> >help, and when I mentioned it was for a PRV-6, the answer was
> >either "that engine was used in boats," or "i have no idea." I would
> >have thought Volvo dealership mechanics would have known a thing or
> >two about the engine??? This was kind of scary, considering I may
> >need to call one of these places in the future, should my D ever need
> >some serious engine work. I'll deal with that when it comes I
> >guess.
> >
> >Anyway, I looked back in the backissues and found where Marty Maier
> >specified the Autozone part, Wells PS-136. I was able to cross
> >reference this part at NAPA and the price was around $27 with tax.
> >It looks almost exactly like the original, with the exception that
> >there is a spade connector at the top instead of a bolt and nut.
> >
> >Matt
> >#1604
> >
> >P.S. Does anyone have any good tips for restoring the black plastic
> >valences? Mine are a little scratched up.
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> >moderators@xxxx
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> >
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> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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>
>
>
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>
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>
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>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 09:55:34 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: How much to do it all a second time around?
In a message dated 1/10/04 10:03:47 AM Central Standard Time,
chinatown_film@xxxxxxxxx writes:
If I remember correctly, way back when, JZ decided on a figure of around $110
million to setup and get DMC successfully underway.
<<<<
According to many analysts (as cited in the many books on the subject such as
Dream Maker and Hard Driving), JZD should have had $250 million, eliminated a
top-heavy corporate structure, and set his sights a little lower, perhaps to
10000 cars per year. It would have helped if he could have seperated the
DMC-12 from the DMC-24 (maybe even the DMC-80) and gotten sedan prototyping done
sometime in late 1981. instead, he focused on other things such as the Logan
snowgrooming outfit, fashion accessories, buying out Chrysler, high-tech
unproven engines, etc. In my opinion, he just didn't focus on the car - instead he
focused on the DMC conglomerate.
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 03:06:35 -0000
From: "drhdmc12" <drhdmc12@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Trip To DMCH
I was having some tranny trouble (automatic) and knew based on
the DML it was the computer govenor, so I decided
to personally haul it to Houston to get a new one. I hauled it down
from Denver, CO on a Friday and met Bill from DMC on Saturday around
noon. James just happened to be in the office that day as well and
they both gave my car the once over.
I flew to Houston 3 weeks later to pick it up. DMCH did a great job
and my car looked great too, Thanks DMCH! (PS I love my NOS luggage
rack!)
On the way home I stopped in Forney, TX to meet with John Hervey. He
helped me with his Fan Fix because the previous owner (my dad) had
taken out the blue fan fail socket. John also helped me with several
other things at no cost... He is truly a good guy and I can
recommend his Fan Fix, it works great, although my fans were never
really needed for this trip due to the rain from Houston into NM.
The engine temperature hung just below the 1st mark on the
temperature gauge for 900 miles!
To make a long story short the car ran flawlessly and what a
comfortable ride!!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 03:35:13 -0000
From: "drhdmc12" <drhdmc12@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: "Dummy" button's in the center console
On my solo trip from Houston to Denver in vin 3254 I thought about a
lot of different things here are the highlights:
1. A Cup holder would be great.
2. I wish I had an in-dash CD changer because the one behind the
seat is a bit imppossible to get to while driving.
3. My car sure rides smooth even at high speeds. I can't count how
many times I would look at the speedometer and it was bouncing off
the 85 mile an hour mark at the bottom! (Thank God the TX state
patrol was busy elswhere!!!) Several times it took more just a few
seconds for it to start moving downward YIKES!!!
4. My headlights stink, after a while I ran with my brights on and
nobody seemed to care. I guess I was too low and the SUV's and 18
wheelers were out my bright lights range?
Last if I could use the "dummy" button closest to the driver for
anything at all, it would be for an all-in-one cruise control button
(My 94 Honda has one about that small). Especially for a lefty like
me it would be the perfect spot!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 15:34:55 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ADMIN : Virus Stuff
Categorically the DeLorean Mailing List does not post Virus warnings,
because most of them are pretty meaningless.
BUT At this time, SOMEONE on the list has a virus on their computer
that is sending itself to email addresses from their own address
book, and changing things around to make it look like it'c coming
from here. (The giveaway on this is that the email id is DMCNEWS but
the domain is NOT YahooGroups - it can be just about anything else).
If you get one of these just delete it. There's nothing we can do
about it since it is not really coming from the list. Yahoo has
extremely good filtering software and we've never seen any virus come
thru the list. We have list attachments shut off as well.
In the mean time, as always, please practice safe computing and keep
your virus checking files up to date.
This is not an invitation to start a virus discussion, followups will
be dropped.
Dave S
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 08:46:52 -0700
From: Marcel Bourgon <mbourgon@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: john hervey and specialty auto
drhdmc12 wrote:
>I was having some tranny trouble (automatic) and knew based on
>the DML it was the computer govenor, so I decided
>to personally haul it to Houston to get a new one. I hauled it down
>from Denver, CO on a Friday and met Bill from DMC on Saturday around
>noon. James just happened to be in the office that day as well and
>they both gave my car the once over.
>
>I flew to Houston 3 weeks later to pick it up. DMCH did a great job
>and my car looked great too, Thanks DMCH! (PS I love my NOS luggage
>rack!)
>
>On the way home I stopped in Forney, TX to meet with John Hervey. He
>helped me with his Fan Fix because the previous owner (my dad) had
>taken out the blue fan fail socket. John also helped me with several
>other things at no cost... He is truly a good guy and I can
>recommend his Fan Fix, it works great, although my fans were never
>really needed for this trip due to the rain from Houston into NM.
>The engine temperature hung just below the 1st mark on the
>temperature gauge for 900 miles!
>
>To make a long story short the car ran flawlessly and what a
>comfortable ride!!
>
>
>
I recently also had problems with my baby. The miserable fuel pump
decided to injest a small piece of hose clampand froze up. John was a
great help and worked with me up to the end.
My calls to DMCH were also returned and Bill in the shop could not have
been more helpfull.
Us who are lucky enough to live in Texas love both these guys and are
both great vendors
Marcel in El Paso
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 10:10:31 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: MANUAL SHIFTING PROBLEMS (5spd)
I assume that you were able to shift gears easily at one time.
So what has happened to the car since you were able to shift easily and now
that you can not shift easily?
Lets identify the root cause before we try to make it work correctly once
again.
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
-----Original Message-----
From: John Podlewski [mailto:john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2004 8:54 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] MANUAL SHIFTING PROBLEMS (5spd)
Just wondering if someone can actually answer my post about my trouble
shifting and a correct adjustment? Is there only one cable to adjust the
shifting pattern(two nuts on it) or is there something else I should be
looking for? I can't get it into all the gears smoothly especially reverse
and fifth. Again It's either 2nd, 3th, 4th, 5th but no 1st or reverse or
1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and reverse but no 5th, there seems to be no middle
ground with consistency emphasis CONSISTENCY. It's either to far right or
to far to the left, to me. Right now the shifter in Neutral is in the
middle it does not go into REVERSE(only 30% of time) and yes I am lifting up
and to the left on it and fifth is not smooth.
Contrary to belief, almost all the post I've seen so far have been on how to
shift--I KNOW HOW TO DO THAT! After all I've had my Delorean over 4 years
now lets hope i've been doing it right. But it is good for people to know
who may be unfamiliar with Deloreans, so I can understand that, however, I
was just wondering if anybody has had experience with a similar problem?????
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 18:16:13 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Correction: Further PRV History
One correction after re-reading the original post:
PRV cylinders are not "bored" out of a solid block of aluminum (that's
the way engine manufacturers used to create iron blocks in the bad old
days -- guess I'm showing my age), but rather are stand alone steel
assemblies. B28 simply has larger liners than B27.
PRV heads are conventional construction, albeit overhead cam rather
than overhead valve.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> Major aluminum castings are identical among Peugeot, Renault, and
> Volvo installations. Differences are in bolt on accessories.
>
> The original engine displaced 2.66 liters (rounded up to 2.7 liters).
> Hence engine ID's such as "B27" (Volvo) and "Z7V" (Renault). At the
> turn of the decade it was bored out to 2.84 liters -- that's the
> engine purchased by DMC. Cylinder heads are not transferrable between
> 2.7 and 2.8 liter versions. Other bolt on components are transferrable.
>
> Early PRV's were produced with carbureted manifolds. By the late
> 1970's Bosch K-Jetronic was standard. Note that until Volvo's 1988
> re-design, fuel injection occured in the cylinder heads, not the
manifold.
>
> CIS (Constant Idle Speed) and Lambda Sond systems were later additions
> that did not alter core engine design. Later PRV's were also equipped
> for EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) and air injection, though DMC did
> not use either (the capped off port in our U pipes is where EGR would
> normally enter).
>
> By utilizing different height pistons, PRV's were produced with both
> high and low compression ratios. Only low compression versions were
> legal for US import until the late 1980's.
>
> Non-DeLo owning Americans are mostly familiar with the PRV through
> Volvo's 260 and 760 series ("B27" and "B28" engine ID's). It was
> nevertheless not a common engine over here, overwhelmingly outnumbered
> by the 240/740 4 cylinder series (totally different engine with no
> transferrable components). It is very possible that a Volvo dealership
> may have never seen a PRV.
>
> Volvo itself engineered major modifications to the PRV design in 1988,
> creating the even fire, very high compression (10.5:1) B280, still
> produced in Douvrin, France. Through its Renault connection, Chrysler
> imported this re-designed engine for the Eagle Premier series (not to
> be confused with the completely different AMC Eagle series). Very
> little is transferrable between the B280 and the B27/B28, but there
> are a *FEW* xRef's -- don't forget to look up circa 1990 Eagle Premier
> or Volvo Bertone in a parts house computer if early 1980's 260/760
> does not provide any hits. For example, even though its ignition is
> different, a set of B280 spark plug wires will fit our cars. B280 fuel
> injection is Bosch LH-Jetronic -- totally incompatible.
>
> Please note what John Hervey pointed out: even though all PRV's may
> share common gauge sender ports, THE SENDERS THEMSELVES ARE NOT
> COMMON. The type of instrument being driven at the other end
> determines which sender is used. Gauges of course vary between
> manufacturers, and even between year models for the same manufacturer.
> Hence only the thread patterns are identical. Calibrations, sender
> design, etc may well be different.
>
> Note also that PRV threads are British Standard pattern (BSPT, common
> in Europe), not National Pipe pattern (NPT, common in US). The two
> look deceptively similar, but they are different and are not
> interchangeable. Most fittings stocked over here will NOT fit. For
> example, it is difficult to find an over-the-counter hose barb to
> replace the thermostat bleed screw. Senders for after market gauges
> also will not fit. BSPT fittings and adapters between the two patterns
> are available mail order.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@xxxx> wrote:
> > Dale,
> > I will give you my answer. The ( engine ) was built in Douvrin,
> France not
> > the cars and called the PRV 6 engine because of the joint venture.
> > Let me clarify engine, Short block w/o heads and intake and other
major
> > parts, then you have a long block that will have heads and in some
cases
> > intakes but made different for different markets. Over here the
> intake isn't
> > part of the short block and maybe part of the long block. Then you
> have all
> > the instrumentation, sensors, and switches which have to be
different to
> > match up with the countries that the engine is going into. So: Volvo
> will
> > have it's differences from the Renault and the Peugeot because
they are
> > going into different cars and markets. The problem in sourcing parts
> on the
> > engine is which market was the part originally made for and how did De
> > Lorean adapt to it. Example, A temperature sensor for the Delorean
> using an
> > AC Delco dash will have a different resistance normally than the
> same sensor
> > in a Volvo using a Volvo dash or who ever makes it for them. They
> screw into
> > the same hole but have different compatibility characters. So you
> have to
> > find or luck across the right sensor or equipment that Delorean used.
> > Another example is the CV boots we have were originally designed
for the
> > Audi and made by Lobro. The car is full of this kind of what fits
> and works
> > and who was the prime company it was built for.
> > Delorean in most cases was not the initial market.
> > Take a look at this article on PRV6.
> > John Hervey
> > www.specialTauto.com
> > Delorean Parts
> >
> > http://members.fortunecity.com/perttim/therenault30file/id20.html
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: D F [mailto:funkstuf@xxxx]
> > Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 11:06 PM
> > To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: RE: [DML] Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts
reference
> >
> >
> > This brings up a question.
> > I here that this engine cross references with Volvo parts, I heart
> that it
> > is a Renault, and I hear that it is a Peugot.
> > What's the real story here? What other cars was this engine
> actually in. I
> > have heard more about it being a Renault than a Volvo...
> > So, who knows the truth.. Where was this engine built?
> > Dale Funk
> > 4984
> >
> >
> > >From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxx>
> > >Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >Subject: [DML] Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference
> > >Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 05:10:40 -0000
> > >
> > >I had a fun experience this week trying to find an oil pressure
> > >sender replacement locally. On the cross-parts reference, a Volvo
> > >part is listed. So I called a Volvo dealership and asked them to
> > >send me the part, well, they said it was replaced with a newer part
> > >and could overnight it to me for free, so I purchased it for about
> > >$30. It wasn't even close. Wrong size threads, and had a spring
> > >loaded piston on it. So, I would like to warn everyone else that the
> > >part number in the cross reference list is wrong and won't thread
> > >into your block.
> > >
> > >I called up about 4 Volvo dealerships here in Central PA asking for
> > >help, and when I mentioned it was for a PRV-6, the answer was
> > >either "that engine was used in boats," or "i have no idea." I would
> > >have thought Volvo dealership mechanics would have known a thing or
> > >two about the engine??? This was kind of scary, considering I may
> > >need to call one of these places in the future, should my D ever need
> > >some serious engine work. I'll deal with that when it comes I
> > >guess.
> > >
> > >Anyway, I looked back in the backissues and found where Marty Maier
> > >specified the Autozone part, Wells PS-136. I was able to cross
> > >reference this part at NAPA and the price was around $27 with tax.
> > >It looks almost exactly like the original, with the exception that
> > >there is a spade connector at the top instead of a bolt and nut.
> > >
> > >Matt
> > >#1604
> > >
> > >P.S. Does anyone have any good tips for restoring the black plastic
> > >valences? Mine are a little scratched up.
> > >
> > >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 18:24:56 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Permacast wheels?
I took my car out for some exercise today here in NYC, drove to a
local diner and as soon as i parked a gentleman approached the car
and asked if those were the original wheels on the car (which they
are) he told me they were made by a company called Permacast and he
was a distributor for them. Are any of the more senior members of
the list able to confirm this? Just thought I'd try to contribute to
the list.....And yes the Delorean attracted about 12 admirers while
I was outside.
Harry Dounis
VIN# 2696
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 13:25:28 EST
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Door Lock Problem--Frozen?
The problem seemed to fix itself over night, so I think cold might have been
the issue. I know the door was shut tightly, because last night it wouldn't
lock, and this morning it would and I had not opened or closed the door since.
I also wondered if the DeLorean door lock module could be to blame as John
Hervey suggested. I have the Red Wire unhooked from the circuit breaker,
which I was told dissables the problem of having the locks jammed. Is there
something else I am supposed to unhook, like the brown wire too?
Thanks,
Patrick Conlon
1880
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 15:16:15 -0800 (PST)
From: george caprita <dobedoc2000@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RACK UPDATE
Group: There seems to be a lot of confusion about my rack post. Not enough detail, will try to clear it up. On 7/17/03, I ordered a rebuilt rack from
DMC Humble, Texas. Before installing, I moved it lock to lock. It was hard to
move, noisey, and "sticky" in some places. I called DMC and talked to the
rebuilder; he said it was normal, to install it, connect tie rods and try it
then. I did,aligned wheels and drove it. It steered worse than my old one.
Hard to steer with excessive play at center. Now my friend, Gary, gets
involved. He said we should have it taken apart--we did. It was a mess
(details in letter to DMC following this). Gary then called DMC and talked
to the same man I did, asking him what they did to rebuild a rack. After he
finished, Gary told him we had a problem with one we got from him and had it
taken apart. He said, "Oh no, you shouldn't have done that!". He said to
reassemble it and send it back.
In the meantime, I found a used one that Josh Haldeman had for sale in
Cincinnati. We went to get it and took the DMC rack (not assembled yet) to
show it to him. He agreed -- not acceptable! He said we should take his
apart, make sure it is OK, if not, bring it back. Got back, built crate,
assembled rack, sent to DMC. A week later checked used rack, big
difference. Plenty of oil, nothing showed wear; gears shiny, tube clean,
inner and outer tie rods, tension disc, seal all good- except pinion
bearings had rust on them from condensation(?) Could have cleaned them up,
but Gary said replace them. He called P.J. Grady and was told they normally
don't sell rack parts, but would send them. Then Gary said it's all apart,
let's replace all the parts. So I called Grady, told him about the DMC rack;
he asked why I didn't get it from him? I said because it was $45.00
cheaper. I assumed he got his from them and resold them. I got an
education for that remark!!! Got parts, put in rack, installed on car;
drove car two times, put in storage. This spring get car out, take rack off,
send to Grady to get it done right. Will never try this again!! Sorry,
Josh, Gary screwed up your perfectly good rack!! (I'm not taking all the
heat for this one!) The day I shipped rack, got notice the core was
credited to my card. As of this date, have not received explanation or
refund from DMC. Copy of the letter to DMC follows:
> October 22, 2003
>
> DeLorean Motor Company
> 15023 Eddie Drive
> Humble, Texas 77396 USA
>
> RE: Invoice #81663 Invoice Date: 07-17-03
>
> Dear DMC:
> I called your company and talked to the rebuilder about noise and
stiffness,
> tie rod ends were not the same--one had wire ties on boot. He said to
leave
> it on and mount wheels and turn rack wtih them on; said noise and
stiffness
> were normal. I did this but it was not much better. I connected steering
> wheel, moved rack through full range wheels off ground, not very
reassuring.
> Aligned wheels, drove car. Steering was worse than old rack, hard to turn
> left to right on sharp turning, excessive play at center. Effort to move
> left or right from center.
> Removed rack, took it to friend who is a parts manager for
Ford/Honda/Subaru
> and asked if they could disassemble it to determine if it had a problem.
I
> was called to come in and see what was found. The gear rack, two or three
> teeth showed some wear but was deemed serviceable. The bearings each had
> one dark, slightly pitted undersize ball-.003. The cups showed wear on
the
> radius-borderline serviceable. The pinion is heavily pitted, lower
bearing
> shaft surface of pinion is.020-undersize and worn on a taper! Not
> serviceable. Inside of gear rack tube is dirty, rusted, and no oil in it.
> Removed one inner tie rod (on driver side), it had oil in it with some
spots
> of rust. Disc had wear on one side, oil hole was plugged solid. Retaining
> nuts had no pin installed. Right side not removed but oil hole was also
> plugged and no pin. Hole in tube for pre-load bushing is so corroded it
> cannot move freely. Only new parts found: mismatched tie rod ends -
> pre-load bushing- boots.
> With your company's integrity and reputation for excellence, I am certain
> that this rack, in this condition, left your shop by mistake. I have been
> on the "list"
> for about six months and have yet to read a negative comment about your
> porducts. I have since acquired a used rack in good condition and
> Honda/Subaru is rebuilding it for me.
> I request you return my old rack (it can't be as bad as this one, with
only
> 30K miles on it) along with a full refund, please.
> Sincerely,
> George Caprita
>
>
>
>
>
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:25:19 -0000
From: "Steve Abbott" <abbotts@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Correction: Further PRV History
Bill
You'll no doubt want to pelt me with rocks or something for being a
total nit-picking smart ass after this :)
Because it uses rockers the PRV is (strictly speaking) a "cam in
head" design. A true OHC should operate directly on the valves, via
bucket tappets or somesuch.
Cheers
Steve Abbott
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>
wrote:
> One correction after re-reading the original post:
>
>PRV heads are conventional construction, albeit overhead cam rather
> than overhead valve.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 14:01:44 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Door Lock Problem--Frozen?
Patrick, If you undo the brown wire then there is no power going to the lock
module.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx [mailto:PRC1216@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 12:25 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Door Lock Problem--Frozen?
The problem seemed to fix itself over night, so I think cold might have been
the issue. I know the door was shut tightly, because last night it
wouldn't
lock, and this morning it would and I had not opened or closed the door
since.
I also wondered if the DeLorean door lock module could be to blame as John
Hervey suggested. I have the Red Wire unhooked from the circuit breaker,
which I was told dissables the problem of having the locks jammed. Is
there
something else I am supposed to unhook, like the brown wire too?
Thanks,
Patrick Conlon
1880
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 19:03:08 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Free Advice--It isn't Free to Anybody!
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "pjgrady2000" <tech@xxxx> wrote:
<snip>
> Knut,if you would post our correspondence about my reference
> to you in the message it would clear up any confusion that
> may exist on that matter. Thanks ahead of time.
>
Rob and I had a sidebar chat to better understand his reference to
me in his original post. The following is the relevant portion of a
note I sent him as part of the sidebar discussion regarding the
steering rack reference to me:
> You are right that the steering rack I installed about a year
> ago was not the first one I have gone through and now that
> you mention it, the previous one did indeed seem to not last
> as long as perhaps it should have. I don't actually recall
> the specifics of how long the previous one lasted and I
> didn't read too much into it. My car is my daily driver and
> since I live on a gravel road with a stretch of hill that
> always has pretty severe washboarding, I'm a little harder
> on suspension components that the average Joe.
Knut
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 00:56:26 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "Dummy" button's in the center console
The cruise control on the dummy switches would be a fine idea. I
wouldn't know how to implement this though. Any thoughts people? Is
there such a kit?
Re, headlights: I do realize that our headlights are 20 years out of
date but I also notice that most other cars don't care if the hi-
beams are on or not. I strongly suspect that this is also due to how
low to the ground we are. Our headlights are at the level of some
other folks' down-low-driving-lights.
Let's put it this way: I am positively blinded by most people's lo-
beams.
Rich A.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "drhdmc12" <drhdmc12@xxxx> wrote:
> On my solo trip from Houston to Denver in vin 3254 I thought about
a
> lot of different things here are the highlights:
>
> 1. A Cup holder would be great.
>
> 2. I wish I had an in-dash CD changer because the one behind the
> seat is a bit imppossible to get to while driving.
>
> 3. My car sure rides smooth even at high speeds. I can't count how
> many times I would look at the speedometer and it was bouncing off
> the 85 mile an hour mark at the bottom! (Thank God the TX state
> patrol was busy elswhere!!!) Several times it took more just a few
> seconds for it to start moving downward YIKES!!!
>
> 4. My headlights stink, after a while I ran with my brights on and
> nobody seemed to care. I guess I was too low and the SUV's and 18
> wheelers were out my bright lights range?
>
> Last if I could use the "dummy" button closest to the driver for
> anything at all, it would be for an all-in-one cruise control
button
> (My 94 Honda has one about that small). Especially for a lefty like
> me it would be the perfect spot!
________________________________________________________________________
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