There are 24 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR... From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx> 2. Re: EBC Brake pad From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 3. Re: Re: Universial Studio's Japan / Tastey From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 4. Re: John Z's birthday From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 5. Re: Delorean Measurements From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 6. RE: REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR... From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 7. Re: Cat problems From: "Travis" <armac@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 8. Painting engine compartment/nearby items From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx> 9. 15W40 oil brand From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullan@xxxxxxxxxx> 10. carbon buildup From: "Farrar Hudkins" <fhudkins@xxxxxxx> 11. RE: 15W40 oil brand From: "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx> 12. Re: carbon buildup From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> 13. RE: REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR... From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx> 14. RE: 15W40 oil brand From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx> 15. Re: 15W40 oil brand From: "Mr. Woop Ass" <sephiroth@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 16. Re: Re: carbon buildup From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx> 17. Re: carbon buildup From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx 18. Re: Universial Studio's Japan / Tastey From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx> 19. motor oil I like synthetic From: MichaelRPack1@xxxxxx 20. Re: ETDOC From: deloreanss@xxxxxxx 21. Re: Rack & Pinion determination-Grady Reply From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx> 22. Re: carbon buildup From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 23. Re: 15W40 oil brand From: Soma576@xxxxxxx 24. Performance Chips From: "grandprix9598" <grandprix9598@xxxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 19:01:43 -0600 From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR... NO! I remember Gullwing Magazine answering this question last time and they said NO! On Friday, January 2, 2004, at 08:48 AM, Kevin Abato wrote: > Third time I will post this...still no answer yet: > Is there a web site where we can preview the calendar before buying > it!? > > -----Original Message----- > From: gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx [mailto:gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx] > Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 1:33 PM > To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: [DML] REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR... > > > REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR! > > The 2003 DeLorean Calendar is now history! Don't miss out on the 2004 > DeLorean Calendar! > > These are nice collectable items and the pictures are suitable for > framing when you are done with the calendar. This year's calendar > includes custom DeLoreans, painted DeLoreans, DeLoreans in unique and > interesting poses and beautiful background sceneries. There's even a > bonus cover photo that features a group shot of Ds with the WTC Twin > Towers in the skyline. Simply beautiful! > > The 12-month calendar is assembled like a booklet or magazine (no > spiral > binding), 11 X 17 (open) glossy full-color photos with bleed to edge of > page (no borders), for 8 1/2 X 11 (closed) frameable prints. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 01:48:20 +0000 From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: EBC Brake pad I have known of these for some time and priced them up a while ago too - DeLorean calipers are not specific. The general consensus is that on DeLoreans the wear time is unacceptable (for greenstuff) and considerably more expensive. The only real advantage is the lack of dusting - which for someone with early grey wheels like mine, this is extremely attractive! Martin #1458 ttanaka504@xxxxxxx wrote: >Hello list, > > I just let Delorean owners know EBC brake has brake pads for >Delorean. >http://www.ebcbrakesuk.com/ > > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 19:52:09 -0600 From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Re: Universial Studio's Japan / Tastey Erik, Can you post some pictures of those BTTF items. BOB ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 19:54:32 -0600 From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: John Z's birthday Hopefully, JZD monitors the DML. Happy Birthday from all of your loyal Delorean owners!!! ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 19:54:32 -0800 (PST) From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Delorean Measurements Shannon, Precisely which measurements of the car's body do you want?I'm happy to measure any part of the car for you but need to know specifics. Cheers, Andrew VIN 2883 Sydney,Australia. --- birdwell77095 <birdwells@xxxxxxx> wrote: > Does anyone have detailed measurements of the body > of a Delorean? I > can find on the web general measurements such as > width, height, etc. > But I need detailed measurements of the body. > Thanks. > > Shannon ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 20:01:41 -0800 (PST) From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR... Kevin, I do believe Ron and Cheryl did answer your question last time.I remember reading it.Perhaps you didn't get the E-Mail but they said they don't have a web site to view the calender but can be reached via their E-Mail address to field any questions about the calender. Cheers, Andrew VIN 2883 Sydney,Australia. --- Kevin Abato <delorean@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Third time I will post this...still no answer yet: > Is there a web site where we can preview the > calendar before buying it!? ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 04:02:08 -0000 From: "Travis" <armac@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Cat problems you can spray orange cleaner on the tarp and put tin foil on the part of the tarp that is being scratched or maybe double sided tape as they hate the above and sticky surfaces. --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote: > One of the oldest and most humane methods is to just put a few > mothballs (camphor) under the car. It will keep EVERYTHING away > including cats, bugs, squirrels, mice, etc. Spread them out under the > car and keep the doors and windows closed. > David Teitelbaum > vin 10757 > > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, PRC1216@xxxx wrote: > > Try one of those ultrasonic pet repellers. They are silent yet > keep most > > animals away from things they shouldn't be in to. Check online, I > think most > > stores like Wal-Mart have them, but check first. > > > > Patrick > > 1880 > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 8 Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 08:27:15 -0000 From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx> Subject: Painting engine compartment/nearby items Hello, Is it necessary to use a high temp paint to paint the engine cover hinges/engine cover/engine compartment? I was going to use ACE STOP RUST gloss and flat black enamel. thanks! Matt #1604 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 9 Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 10:51:44 -0500 From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullan@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: 15W40 oil brand I was looking through a local Pep Boys store the other day, and had a difficult time locating 15W40 oil. As it turns out, they only seem to carry one brand of that weight, and only in gallons. I've never heard of this oil brand (began with an R, forget the full name). The package had a yellow shell on it, so I wonder if maybe the oil is actually produced by Shell Oil, and distributed under a strange name? While I know there are many conflicting ideas about what kind of oil to use in the PRV, I was wondering if anyone had a strong opinion one way or another about using an oddball oil brand, as opposed to the better known ones. I had no trouble finding the GTLMA fluid for my clutch, which was nice to see. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 10 Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 10:18:35 -0600 From: "Farrar Hudkins" <fhudkins@xxxxxxx> Subject: carbon buildup Bill Robertson wrote: > Of course once an engine is carbonized, you may have no choice but to > burn high octane fuel. Not only will the deposits reduce cylinder > volume slightly, raising compression (in a bad way), but they glow red > hot and can cause low octane fuel to pre-detonate. Does anybody know the name of the stuff to decarbonize one's engine? I recall somebody saying it comes in a can, and the engine runs off of the can for a minute or two (belching out great plumes of stuff). I don't ask because I want to burn a different fuel ... My engine seems to run well on 89 octane fuel -- fine with me but it'd be nice to burn out the junk. With close to 90,000 miles I suspect it should be about time for this especially since I don't know what happened before I bought the thing. Regards and Happy 2004, Farrar Hudkins New Orleans, LA ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 11 Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 10:51:38 -0600 From: "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: 15W40 oil brand I don't know why this keeps coming up since it is defined in the manual.... unless you live far north, near Alaska, deep Canada or where the temp is usually below zero you should just use 20/50 as it suggests in the manual. Here in Texas it stays pretty warm except for early mornings where I have seen it get below zero this year, but I am usually not tooling around in my car at 4AM when it is 27 degrees out. If you review your owners manual, or a workshop book you will see that the grades are listed by temperature. 10/30, 15/40 and 20/40 are listed for temps below 14F. Anything above that would be 20/50. Save yourself some trouble and pick a good name brand of oil, Penzz, Mobil, etc.. and buy 8 quarts, or 2 gallons of that. Make sure to get some new copper crush washers: ( 16mm or 5/8" copper) (Oil-Tite: 65273) ....for the drain plug or it might leak. You can get them free with oil filters when you buy them from John (specialtauto.com). So unless you are skidding the tundra today, I would use 20/50. - Videobob VIN# 5278 > >I was looking through a local Pep Boys store the other day, and had a >difficult time locating 15W40 oil. As it turns out, they only seem to >carry >one brand of that weight, and only in gallons. I've never heard of this >oil >brand (began with an R, forget the full name). The package had a yellow >shell on it, so I wonder if maybe the oil is actually produced by Shell >Oil, >and distributed under a strange name? > >While I know there are many conflicting ideas about what kind of oil to use >in the PRV, I was wondering if anyone had a strong opinion one way or >another about using an oddball oil brand, as opposed to the better known >ones. > >I had no trouble finding the GTLMA fluid for my clutch, which was nice to >see. > _________________________________________________________________ Take advantage of our limited-time introductory offer for dial-up Internet access. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 12 Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 16:54:17 -0000 From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: carbon buildup It is called "Engine Top End Cleaner". I don't remember who makes it. It seems since the introduction of catalytic converters it is hard to find this anymore. I am guessing but it probably wasn't any good for the converters so it is no longer available. You might find some old stock if you look hard enough. If you have always used modern gasoline then it isn't much of a concern anymore. On all the motors I have taken apart they don't carbon up like they used to with the older gas. Unless the rings are shot and you are burning large quantities of oil you shouldn't need to do it. I DO suggest you have the fuel injectors cleaned. A dirty injector with a bad spray pattern will affect performance. You can't do it with a can of stuff in the fuel tank. The injectors MUST come off and be done in a tester. You can also pull the spark plugs. They can tell you a lot about how the motor is inside and how it is running. If they are all caked up with carbon then you know you have problems. Generally they come out nice and tan except for wear on the electodes. Always cheaper to replace but they too can be cleaned and regapped if not too worn or cracked. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Farrar Hudkins" <fhudkins@xxxx> wrote: > Bill Robertson wrote: > > > Of course once an engine is carbonized, you may have no choice but to > > burn high octane fuel. Not only will the deposits reduce cylinder > > volume slightly, raising compression (in a bad way), but they glow red > > hot and can cause low octane fuel to pre-detonate. > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 13 Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 12:01:35 -0500 From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR... My apologies. Somehow I DID miss their reply in the past. Thanks! (and sorry!) ;) -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Prentis [mailto:aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 11:02 PM To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: [DML] REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR... Kevin, I do believe Ron and Cheryl did answer your question last time.I remember reading it.Perhaps you didn't get the E-Mail but they said they don't have a web site to view the calender but can be reached via their E-Mail address to field any questions about the calender. Cheers, Andrew VIN 2883 Sydney,Australia. --- Kevin Abato <delorean@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Third time I will post this...still no answer yet: > Is there a web site where we can preview the > calendar before buying it!? ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 14 Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 10:57:47 -0600 From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: 15W40 oil brand When you buy a name brand motor oil, Chevron, Pennzoil, ect, you are buying the additive package. In college, we ran experiments with various oils that all had the same SAE/API minimum specifications. The house brand/generic low cost oils would loose there lubricating properties sooner than the major brand oils. Do not go cheap on your motor oil. Use a name brand petroleum based oil and change the oil and filter frequently. The Technical reference guide states that you should use API Service SF, above 10F, 20w/40 or 20w/50 and below 10F, use 10w/50. Scott Mueller 002981 RNDOLA -----Original Message----- From: Scott McMullan [mailto:mcmullan@xxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 9:52 AM To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [DML] 15W40 oil brand I was looking through a local Pep Boys store the other day, and had a difficult time locating 15W40 oil. As it turns out, they only seem to carry one brand of that weight, and only in gallons. I've never heard of this oil brand (began with an R, forget the full name). The package had a yellow shell on it, so I wonder if maybe the oil is actually produced by Shell Oil, and distributed under a strange name? While I know there are many conflicting ideas about what kind of oil to use in the PRV, I was wondering if anyone had a strong opinion one way or another about using an oddball oil brand, as opposed to the better known ones. I had no trouble finding the GTLMA fluid for my clutch, which was nice to see. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 15 Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 12:02:30 -0500 From: "Mr. Woop Ass" <sephiroth@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: 15W40 oil brand It's called Rotella T 15w40 Universal Motor Oil 15w40. It's the only oil we use when we have to change the oil on diesel engined trucks... And yes it is made by shell. I've heard from many oldschool customers that its pretty good oil... Rex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullan@xxxxxxxxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 10:51 AM Subject: [DML] 15W40 oil brand > > I was looking through a local Pep Boys store the other day, and had a > difficult time locating 15W40 oil. As it turns out, they only seem to carry > one brand of that weight, and only in gallons. I've never heard of this oil > brand (began with an R, forget the full name). The package had a yellow > shell on it, so I wonder if maybe the oil is actually produced by Shell Oil, > and distributed under a strange name? > > While I know there are many conflicting ideas about what kind of oil to use > in the PRV, I was wondering if anyone had a strong opinion one way or > another about using an oddball oil brand, as opposed to the better known > ones. > > I had no trouble finding the GTLMA fluid for my clutch, which was nice to > see. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 16 Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 12:22:18 -0600 From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Re: carbon buildup I was getting oil for my outboard motor and they had this type of product for sale at the local Johnson Outboard Motor Retailer near my house. I remember it was a spray you choked the engine with, let it sit for a while, start it up and it would smoke like hell till all deposit's were burnt out, i am sure they sell it at your local Outboard Boat Motor Retail center. Mark On Saturday, January 3, 2004, at 10:54 AM, David Teitelbaum wrote: > It is called "Engine Top End Cleaner". I don't remember who makes it. > It seems since the introduction of catalytic converters it is hard to > find this anymore. I am guessing but it probably wasn't any good for > the converters so it is no longer available. You might find some old > stock if you look hard enough. If you have always used modern gasoline > then it isn't much of a concern anymore. On all the motors I have > taken apart they don't carbon up like they used to with the older gas. > Unless the rings are shot and you are burning large quantities of oil > you shouldn't need to do it. I DO suggest you have the fuel injectors > cleaned. A dirty injector with a bad spray pattern will affect > performance. You can't do it with a can of stuff in the fuel tank. The > injectors MUST come off and be done in a tester. You can also pull the > spark plugs. They can tell you a lot about how the motor is inside and > how it is running. If they are all caked up with carbon then you know > you have problems. Generally they come out nice and tan except for > wear on the electodes. Always cheaper to replace but they too can be > cleaned and regapped if not too worn or cracked. > David Teitelbaum > vin 10757 > > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Farrar Hudkins" <fhudkins@xxxx> wrote: >> Bill Robertson wrote: >> >>> Of course once an engine is carbonized, you may have no choice but to >>> burn high octane fuel. Not only will the deposits reduce cylinder >>> volume slightly, raising compression (in a bad way), but they glow >>> red >>> hot and can cause low octane fuel to pre-detonate. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 17 Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 15:15:08 EST From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: carbon buildup Napa Sells it with their name on it or 3M makes and it is also at NAPA....The 3M brand is about $35 for the can and it hooks up to a pressure guage and your engine runs on it for 5 min. Mike C [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 18 Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 20:22:04 -0000 From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Universial Studio's Japan / Tastey I've posted all but my ear wax remover on my homepage. http://www.drunkonthemoon.com/d_items.htm Its in a box at my parents house right now. I'll post it when I go there next. Erik --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxx> wrote: > Erik, > > Can you post some pictures of those BTTF items. > > BOB ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 19 Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 15:36:52 -0500 From: MichaelRPack1@xxxxxx Subject: motor oil I like synthetic I like synthetic oil. The manual in my BMW's advise to use only Mobil One or BMW synthetic. Their is a myth that you can go for longer oil change intervals. The technician at the BMW dealer advise that it is good measure to change every three months or three thousand miles. I use 5w40 BMW synthetic in the 2001 740iL. 10w40 MobilOne synthetic in all of my cars. Some of the BMW club members that track their cars at auto courses love AMSOIL products. Sincerely, Michael Pack Severna Park Maryland ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 20 Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 17:24:18 EST From: deloreanss@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: ETDOC Hey, yes definately we (ETDOC) do still exist. And yes, you are correct the website is way overdue for updates. We are going to get that back inline shortly. Also, we are in the beginning stages of planning our next event. It's real prelimenary right now, but there is a possibilty of going to a large road course track (over 3 miles long). When I know more I will let everyone know. ETDOC still lives, but as always, we are as unorganized as they come and proud of it. Will let you know when plans materialize, and yes come to Pigeon Forge for the big show. John Weaver ETDOC RED DMC #10527 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 21 Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 23:10:31 -0000 From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Rack & Pinion determination-Grady Reply Rob has some difficulty getting this to the list and asked me to post the reply... Dave S ----------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: "PJ Grady Info" <info@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 6:58 PM Subject: RE: Talks to God I understand your dilemma. To the best of my knowledge the bearing is what is known as a "special". This is commonly done in the auto business by factories to keep people from putting generic components in their assemblies. There are many reasons for this. 1)The first obviously is greed. They want your future business on the components they manufacture. 2) Conversely this also helps the company to stay in business which is usually a good thing. 3) This is especially common with steering and suspension components because the company has your safety and their reputation as a top priority. 4) The quality of bearings and such varies greatly and this helps the company to control the safe repair and use of the product. 5) Equally important this helps control who rebuilds the components as the controlled distribution of repair parts also prequalifies who will rebuild these safety critical items. Years ago I disassembled a new steering rack and had all of the bearings, bushings, preloader springs and shims manufactured from scratch. By far the most expensive parts were the bearings so I had to make 200 bearing assemblies for it to be cost effective. The high grade of steel we used had to be machined, heat treated to c60 (that's hard!) and then ground to final dimensions. Heat treating to this hardness requires precalculation of the shrinkage rate or your new parts are now scrap! I spent many thousands of dollars to have all these parts manufactured. If you have a worn bearing then I assure you your rack will need other parts such as boots, a pinion seal and internal bushings. One of the reasons (besides the money I invested) I haven't sold these parts individually is to protect people from poor and incomplete repairs on the most important safety item in their car. I have sold racks to people who had bought them from at least two of the other major vendors because these assemblies were of poor quality. If you can't get a quality part from these guys what chance do you or even your mechanic have of doing a quality repair. PJ Grady's is the only vendor who rebuilds their racks in house using all new bearings, seals, bushings, preload shims and springs. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Because our racks are forty five dollars higher than Houston's we have watched our sales of this part plummet in the last year or so. We went through our first 100 racks (200 Bearings) in about 3 years which I felt was sustainable on an investment verses return basis. If sales don't pick up I will either A) Discontinue manufacturing these parts as I use up existing stock or B) Offer them as a rebuild kit complete with rebuild instructions. The problem with B) goes back to reason number 5. We lose all control of who rebuilds the rack and also the quality of the reusable core parts i.e. the rack body, pinion and rack bar. We reject about half the cores we receive because of pitting of the gears, housing damage etc. Our racks are rebuilt by my shop foreman who has many years of experience. You can put your life in his hands I guarantee it! Is that worth the extra forty five dollars? My ad for this part says it all "when your car won't steer, just remember, the good racks are here. Since many of you don't apparently think so I have decided to decrease the price to match Houston's. If that doesn't help I just won't bother making them any more. I know the poor economy plays a part in this. I've seen my sales on stainless radiator screens and life time guarantee tail light circuit boards drop as well (which no one else makes). Would anybody care if I stopped producing these parts? Please give me some feedback on this.I need to make some decisions. Why did "Talks to God" ignore George Caprita's post about his experience with a rebuilt rack. I guess he only talks to God. Unfortunately George didn't tell him who he purchased his rebuilt rack from nor all the problems he found inside it. Isn't anybody brave on this list? That's ok I won't tell either. I have more to lose than an owner does after all I have a DeLorean business. Several other people on this list have had similar problems with other vendors (are you listening Christian etc? - and what about your experiences Knut?) but no one speaks up...or it doesn't get past the moderators. I'll have more to say on this and other subjects at a later date. Happy New Year Rob Grady ______________________________ www.info(AT)pjgrady.com -------------------- --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxx> wrote: > Hello again all...Those of you who have taken apart your rack & pinion > know there are 2 open bearings-one on top, one on the bottom-of the > shaft with the worm gear. It seems to me that the STEEL worm gear and > shaft will not wear out so very easily, so-it's the bearings that will > wear before anything else even comes close. I confirmed this on mine > by checking the wear on the bearings-sure enough only ONE (one closest > to the top) was worn and is causing my rack and pinion to function > very poorly with much play. The gears are absolutly fine with no wear > what so ever. Now, why am I going to spend almost 400 dollars plus a > core charge and shipping troubles for JUST ONE lousy bearing? It also > comes to my attention that there are a large amount of people willing > to sell me (regular people, not venders) used rack & pinions BUT ALSO > want my old core-this I thought was very odd. This only tells me that > there has got to be a cross reference for these bearings-there must > be. Why are we paying so much money just for a bearing replacement? I > refuse to pay this amount of money for 1 worn bearing-does anyone know > anything about these bearings? I am determined to find one that will > work-out of all the bearings being made in the world there will be one > similar! ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 22 Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 23:41:10 -0000 From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: carbon buildup The stuff you refer to, Dave Stragand brought over to our little Maryland tech session. It hooks to a pressure gauge rig to the supply side of the fuel distro. Plug the return side. Pop the inertia switch to shut off the fuel pump. Ask Dave Stragand for the actual brand name. Rich A. #5335 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Farrar Hudkins" <fhudkins@xxxx> wrote: > Bill Robertson wrote: > > > Of course once an engine is carbonized, you may have no choice but to > > burn high octane fuel. Not only will the deposits reduce cylinder > > volume slightly, raising compression (in a bad way), but they glow red > > hot and can cause low octane fuel to pre-detonate. > > Does anybody know the name of the stuff to decarbonize one's engine? I > recall somebody saying it comes in a can, and the engine runs off of the can > for a minute or two (belching out great plumes of stuff). I don't ask > because I want to burn a different fuel ... My engine seems to run well on > 89 octane fuel -- fine with me but it'd be nice to burn out the junk. With > close to 90,000 miles I suspect it should be about time for this especially > since I don't know what happened before I bought the thing. > > Regards and Happy 2004, > Farrar Hudkins > New Orleans, LA ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 23 Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 19:15:04 EST From: Soma576@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: 15W40 oil brand In a message dated 1/3/04 12:16:34 PM Central Standard Time, scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx writes: Do not go cheap on your motor oil. Use a name brand petroleum based oil and change the oil and filter frequently. The Technical reference guide states that you should use API Service SF, above 10F, 20w/40 or 20w/50 and below 10F, use 10w/50. Scott Mueller 002981 RNDOLA <<<<<<<<<< Interesting how all three manuals give different information: Workshop manual: above 14F: 15w40, 20w40, 20w50 below 14F: 15w40, 10w30, 5w20 Technical Info manual (from above post) above 10F: 20w40, 20w50 below 10F 10w50 Owner's Manual ('82): above 64F 20w50 2F-102F 10w20, 10w30, 10w40, 15w40, 20w40 Why can't any information here agree? Personally, i have been using mobil 10w40, but i think i might go to mobil 1 15W40 next season. At least the 15W40 is listed for summertime temperatures in the owner's manual AND the Workshop manual. I fear that 20W50 may be a little too thick for those of us in the upper part of the US, even if we don't drive our cars in the winter time. there are many days even in the summer when the temps go below 64F at night. Not only that, but a thicker oil will make it harder to get good gas mileage or maximum performance on a low compression non-race engine such as our PRV's (though I have to admit that the PRV is a 'loose' engine and could benefit from a thicker oil/longer drain intervals). any other thoughts? has anyone switched grades each season or oil change to note performance or starting differences? Andy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 24 Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 02:12:15 -0000 From: "grandprix9598" <grandprix9598@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Performance Chips Hey all, I know this isn't directly related to a DeLorean, but I keep seeing performance chips on sale for cars. Do they really work, or add any performance that is noticeable? Thanks Dave L. Overseas in Operation Iraqi Freedom ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------