[DMCForum] Re: Started my frame-off restoration!

["John Dore" <dmcjohn@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

(Just a post I sent into the DML)

Hi Rich,

Did someone really leave his frame in an acid tank for years?! Wow, 
what a waste of time... Why did he not try a stronger acid?

I need to dip the frame in acid to remove epoxy from the areas of the 
frame a sandblaster will not reach, such as inside the engine 
subframe and inside the rear shocktowers. If I don't get the epoxy 
off, the galvanising will not work well in these areas. Of course, 
the galvanising is hot enough that it will burn off any epoxy that is 
left over, but I want to get as much of it out of that area as 
possible to get as good adhesion as possible between the zinc coating 
and the frame.

I have a guy coming to inspect the frame from the acid stripping 
place in 2 weeks, and I think we will be testing on a sample area of 
the frame where the epoxy is in excellent shape, such as the top of 
the frame. This will give us a good idea whether it is viable or not 
to dip the frame in his tank.

There is also the closed section of the front crossmember, but as I 
will be opening that section up to replace the bottom plate, I can 
sandblast the inside of that area. So really it is only the rear of 
the frame that really needs to be dipped.

As for galvanising warping the frame - I am aware that this can 
happen, but in the 9 or 10 cases I've heard of people hot-dip 
galvanising their DeLorean frames, no-one has experienced any 
warpage. Also, all Lotus Esprit frames are hot-dipped galvanised, and 
they turn out fine, and they are basically the same design!

As long as the galvanising company takes care, there should be no 
problem. Even if it does warp I don't think it will be very 
significant, and should be repairable back to factory specs as 
detailed in the back of the Workshop manual. On the retapping of the 
bolt holes in the frame, this won't take too long, and its a small 
price to pay for a completely rust proof frame.

Spot repairs, POR-15, etc would be fine if I was not planning on 
keeping the car forever. Ultimately, if you simply weld in patches, 
paint POR-15 over the area, and respray, the rust will return again. 
Galvanising is the only real long term solution, apart from obviously 
replacing the frame with a Stainless one. After going to the trouble 
of taking the car apart, I'm planning on fixing it right and fixing 
it once and for all by going thru galvanising and powdercoating. 

What do you do with DeLorean frames when restoring them at your 
DeLorean Welding Center (DWC)? How do you stop and/or repair rust in 
the impossible to reach areas without using a dipping process?

Thanks,
John
PS Don't worry, I plan to give my Dad back his garage space before 
the summer is over :)

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> You may want to re-consider a few of the things you mentioned
> regarding the stripping and refurbishing of your frame.
> 
> Acid dipping - to do this in such a way as to remove the epoxy
> and not damage the mild steel underneath, you may have your
> frame in a solution for several YEARS.  This was done by a
> member of the Mid-States Delorean club and he had his frame
> at Redi-Strip for a few years at the bottom of one of the big
> tanks.  They would check it, early on, every few days, then
> weeks, then months.  Of course, the loose epoxy came off right
> away, but the stuff that was stuck good was STUCK REAL GOOD.
> 
> Sand blasting - you need to be careful with the type of media
> used, especially if you were considering stripping the entire
> frame.  Again, where the epoxy is still stuck good, you will
> really need to work at these areas to remove the epoxy, but
> care must be taken not to accidently remove adjacent good steel
> with a media that is too abrasive.
> 
> Hot dipped galvanizing - not only can the heat from this process
> warp your frame, but plan to re-tap every bolt location on the
> frame after the galvanizing process, to clean out the threads.
> Again, this has been done before and takes a lot of extra time.
> 
> Since you said that your frame is 90% in good or very good shape,
> you may want to do spot repairs, POR15, prime the entire frame
> and then paint the entire frame the desired color.  Otherwise,
> your dad may not get his garage back for a long, long time.
> 
> Later,
> Rich W.
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, dmcjohn@xxxx wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Hi lads,
> >
> > snip <
> > 
> > Anyway, the next step will be to get the welding done, then get 
the
> > frame acid dipped and sandblasted, hot-dipped galvanised, and
> > powdercoated. I'm not going to get the original matte gray color 
on
> > the frame, I'm going to powdercoat it a very bright metallic 
> Silver,
> > to give it more of a Stainless Steel look. I'll powdercoat the
> > suspension arms the stock black color...
> >
> > snip <
> >
> > Thanks,
> > John Dore, Ireland.
> > Vin 3810
> > http://www.delorean.ie

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