Re: [DMCForum] Thermostat?

["Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>]

I say stick with the original temp.  I think it is supposed to be 190F, but I have a horrible memory for such things.  I think it's the same as a '96 Ford Explorer.  If you twist my arm, I'll look up some cross-references.  Going cooler will increase your emissions.  Going hotter will contribute to thermal breakdown.  Whatever you get, be sure to also get the rubber seal.  It isn't a simple o-ring.

The next time I need a thermostat, I plan on buying one from this guy:
http://www.indussys.com/customer/motorad/motorad.htm
In fact, I shouldn't wait until I need one and be stuck without.  If you aren't too lazy then you should find out if this guy makes one that will fit the DeLorean.  

If it works, this is a great solution.  I like thermostats about as much as I like batteries, the smell of automatic transmission fluid or trying to get my wheels balanced.  Thermostats are one of those built-in uncertainties that can easily leave you stranded.  They suck.

Walt
p.s. the following is a nice DML post by David T that you might find worth reading:

From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 11:34 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Overheating
> Every hose on the car is equally important including the ones you
> can't see on top of the engine. All of the hoses are under 15 psi and
> operate at over 200 degrees. You should not expect them to last 20 +
> years, this goes for the belts too. If you have a coolant leak
> ANYWHERE you are going to have a problem. Even a seemingly small leak
> will eventually allow air into the system causing the water pump to
> stop circulating or reducing the capacity of the radiator. I urge
> everyone on the DML to replace ALL of the coolant hoses and seals if
> they are origional or if you just don't know. The PRV-6 is a rugged
> little engine but it can't take overheating. For a bulletproof cooling
> system I recommend the following
> Replace ALL hoses and seals (including the heater hoses front AND rear)
> Replace the idler bearings
> Replace the "vee" belts
> Switch to a metal header bottle
> Replace the otterstadt switch and seal and convert to the higher vin
> configuration if an early car
> Upgrade the 2 circuit breakers by fuse block
> Go with a Fanzilla
> Use a 50/50 mix of soft water and premium anti-freeze that says safe
> for aluminum and change it every 2 years
> Pressurize the system for 15 min to 15 psi and bleed for air while
> testing for leaks
> Test the pressure cap
> Install an overflow recovery bottle on the hose under the pressure cap.
> Replace the origional radiater that has the plastic tanks on it with a
> triple row brass radiator.
> Make sure both fans run and are blowing from front to rear and the
> fans are not loose on the motor shafts
> Make sure there is no crud blocking the air flow through the radiator
> Do not block or obstruct the tiny grills in front of the radiator
> (like with a license plate)
> If you do all of these things you will have a very reliable cooling
> system on the Delorean. IMHO the two weakest areas of the car are the
> cooling system and the electrical system. These improvements will take
> out the majority of the problems. It will be expensive but so is
> towing and doing the repairs anyway and the possability of doing
> expensive damage to the motor.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 
also read this one:
 
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 10:18 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Radiator pipe mounting bracket
> The clamps that hold the coolant pipes are called Bundy clamps and 
> there was a piece of rubber in the clamp origionaly to keep the clamp 
> from rubbing a hole into the pipe. Just go to an auto parts store and 
> get a sheet of thin rubber (or a plumbing supply) cut it up into 
> strips and wrap it around the pipe under the clamp.
>  The pipe on the left with the otterstadt switch has the clamp behind 
> the switch and the switch pointed down.
>  The bleeder screw is in the thermostat housing at the top of the 
> "coolant pump" just to the left of where the right hose connects. It 
> is under a piece of the throttle spool bracket. It looks like the 
> bleeder nipple on the brakes with a hole in the middle. If the hoses 
> are origional they should all be replaced, same for the belts, idler 
> pulley bearings, seals and gaskets.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
and this one too:

From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 10:04 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Standard operating temprature and gauge reading


> The thermostat specs for OEM are; start to open 185F - full open 
> 212F.
> The thermo fan switch OEM is; Fans on 207F - Fans off 196F.
> 
> John Hervey has this and other specs readily available on his web 
> pages. With pictures.
> 
> If the gauge is operating properly and the engine temp is being 
> maintained at what I call running-against-the-thermostat, the temp 
> needle would be on or nearly on the first white line from the bottom 
> line of the temp gauge. Approximately 185F. The gauge sender is not 
> in the highest temp location. The coolant has some engine head to go 
> before passing by the thermostat. The sender is located close to the 
> firewall, passenger side, in the head. It has a one wire connector, 
> a Green/blue wire. I have over the years experienced failure of 
> nearly all the temp parts, gauge, sender, thermostat, wire 
> connections and even the fan switch, although it is not connected to 
> the gauge, I get use to hearing the fans come on and go off at 
> particular points of the temp gauge. This is one way to determine if 
> the gauge is ok. Do the fans come on and go off at the same point on 
> the gauge they always have? If so, then I would say the thermostat 
> needs replaced.
> 
> A very handy tool to have is a temp gun. I have a Raytek, about $80 
> I think, that has allowed me to check the surface temps of just 
> about any component to give me an idea of what is going on. BTW, my 
> thermostat failure was for a stuck open problem. It seemed to open 
> all the way but not close completely which would cause a condition 
> similar to the one you describe.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

ADVERTISEMENT

---

Yahoo! Groups Links

• To visit your group on the web, go to:
  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DMCForum/
   
• To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
  DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
   
• Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.