> DPNW (Toby) also sells an extra radiator
> bleeder for the top line.
Yep, I bought one of those, too.
Thanks for the info, Walt!
-Ryan
--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> When I replaced my radiator, I was redoing the a/c, so I
> took the condenser out with it. I ended up taking the sway
> bar completely off to have room. Can anyone say if there is
> enough room to only need to take the sway bar loose from the
> crumple tube? If you remove the sway bar completely, you
> may need to replace some bushings. The fasteners are all
> supposed to be torqued to spec with thread-locker. Get
> ready to find that the previous bozo cross-threaded the
> fasteners holding the sway bar brackets. It's a good idea
> to presoak all the fasteners with penetrating oil. The
> shroud is held in a few places with Rivnuts which can strip.
>
> The new brass radiator is a bit thicker which causes a
> clearance issue with the fan shroud. I had to cut deeper
> notches in the shroud to fit the ends of the crumple tube.
> The thicker radiator put the fans so far back that the
> blades were hitting the ends of the crumple tubes. I fixed
> this by mounting the fans with longer bolts & stacks of
> washers. It's not the neatest job, but it works. I intend
> to replace those power hungry old clunker fans with modern
> flat ones soon. The rusty brackets that go from the top of
> the radiator to the crumple tube will need to be reshaped to
> accommodate the thicker radiator.
>
> So did you have the privilege of experiencing the wonder
> taste of antifreeze? Yum! I think they should make it a
> Gator-Aid flavor. DPNW (Toby) also sells an extra radiator
> bleeder for the top line. I bought one at Pigeon Forge, but
> haven't used it yet.
>
> Be sure to use the old green variety of antifreeze. The new
> orange stuff is not compatible with lead based solder used
> in brass radiators & heater cores.
>
> Walt
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