[DMCForum] Re: Bill's Engine Very Much Alive

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Don't shed any tears over my 7ZV. It is very much alive and kicking.
Can sling oil with the best of them...

I have every intention of fixing the hole in the top. My original plan
was to find a project car to transplant the A series engine into. Am
deathly curious about how it will perform. That's why I was looking
for another car now, when I can least afford one. Since the guys at
the shop offered their services, and since it would be easiest to take
the thing to an aluminum welder in the back of the truck (shop crew
only welds steel -- big steel), and since I think it will be a scream
to maintain a DeLorean in which you can actually reach the distributor
or remove the intake manifold in less than 2 minutes, I decided to
reverse  the order. One the eve of Pigeon Forge no less.

My Z7V is very quick and free rev'ing. If this A series engine doesn't
perform satisfactorily, rest assured I'll be swapping back in the
future (don't mention that to the shop guys). Only thing that has me
worried: why was A series phased out after 1979? Was it for
performance reasons? Emissions reasons? Marketing reasons? Reliability
reasons (you should see a Volvo carburetor vs its American competition)?

Have pretty much decided to carburete with with a Carter YF (rebuilt).
Should be worth $120 gamble...

The reason I considered relocating the fuel pump was inability to find
a suitable low pressure model to fit the tank boot. Went through every
box at Autozone tonight. Found exactly *ONE* rated 5-8 PSI and
remotely resembling the size I need. Is only 2 inches diameter, but I
should be able to make a bushing to hold it in the boot. This will be
by far the simplest solution. Is also priced only $29.95.

For the time being I am leaving all the injection plumbing and devices
in place and running a new fuel line to the rear, probably on the
outside of the frame along the low side A/C hose. Will cap the ends to
keep crap out.

Hopefully work commences next weekend (need to order in some gaskets).
I'll post the results.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey Andrei,
> 
> Good to hear from you after all this time. I saw your work and 
> thought it was good. Bill could do worse than to get ideas from you.
> 
> He told me about his engine self-destruction. It's a sad thing. Just 
> when he had it running well too.
> 
> Rich A.
> 
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Andrei Cular <andreic@xxxx> wrote:
> > Bill
> > 
> > First off the pump you need to run is made by Facit, and is 
> marketed 
> > under under the Facit name, NAPA, and Fram.  It is the most common 
> > replacement pump used on aircooled VW.  It is solid state in the 
> sense 
> > that it has no brushes, has a built in regulator, and should run 
> about 
> > $12 at any parts store.
> > 
> > I'll send you some pictures off the list thursday eve of how I have 
> my 
> > tank blocked off.  I really don't want to get lectured again about 
> fuel 
> > safety...
> > 
> > 
> > Andrei
> > content22207 wrote:
> > 
> > >To put the ending first: I am soliciting suggestions for securing a
> > >plate to my former fuel pump opening. I envision a large circular 
> disc
> > >with a 1/4" tube stuck straight down into my Hervey baffle (filter
> > >screen attached). I just need to hold it in place, and keep crap 
> out
> > >of my tank. Cutting the lip off an old baffle might be easiest...
> > >
> > >The story: While road testing my clutch installation, engine 
> suddenly
> > >developed what could charitably be described as an "oil leak". 
> Belts
> > >were slinging it absolutely everywhere. Entire engine compartment 
> was
> > >coated. Dripped from the timing chain cover like the DeLorean 
> Valdez
> > >(didn't leave oil spots on the pavement -- left amazingly large
> > >puddles). My brand new dual exhaust is black from barbequed oil. 
> Has
> > >even been slung out the louver vents all over the exterior (bet I'm
> > >made friends at the stop light left & right).
> > >
> > >Checked timing cover bolts -- all were tight. Reseated the lower 8 
> in
> > >silicone with oversize washers to no effect.
> > >
> > >Replaced front oil seal (one advantage of not having a muffler 
> across
> > >the back of your car) to no effect.
> > >
> > >Flooded the "valley of death" as an experiment. Sure enough, water 
> ran
> > >into crank case and foamed my oil.
> > >
> > >My current block has a hole in it a'la Dave Swingle (who theorizes
> > >this will become an ever increasing problem among PRV's that have
> > >spent majority of their life sitting outdoors).
> > >
> > >Since I have a brand spanking new PRV sitting in one corner of the
> > >diesel shop, obvious solution is an engine swap on the eve of 
> Pigeon
> > >Forge...
> > >
> > >Is carbureted A series, so I need 4-6 PSI fuel pressure. Wanted to 
> go
> > >mechanical, but I can't find a pump to fit my block (has a circular
> > >opening to the camshaft, not oblong). Volvo used dual electric 
> pumps
> > >even in the early 1970's, not mechanical. A regulator for my 
> current
> > >CI pump would cost more than a rail mounted low PSI model. So too
> > >would a low PSI pump in the existing boot. I'm looking at generic
> > >industrial pumps, mounted to flat surface, $50 or so.
> > >
> > >As stated, a tube will run straight down into the tank, attached 
> to a
> > >new low pressure line to the rear of the car. Will probably put the
> > >pump back there simply because there's more mounting options.
> > >
> > >Any suggestions to secure my plate to the tank?
> > >
> > >Bill Robertson
> > >#5939
> > >
> > > 
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > 
> > >Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > 
> > >
> > >  
> > >

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