Ok, first: I know I messed w/the timing scale but it had very visible "clean spots" that the mounting screws left on it. When I put it back, I was very careful to line them back up. Also, when I put the engine back together I used a wooden dowel to get #1 at TDC and lined up the pulley mark with the scale. But you never know... Second: I do NOT have flames and such coming out of my intake. After my last set of adjustments I only have the -occasional- little fart. It only occurs during certain conditions. When the rain quits I'll try to do a compression check. I pulled one plug at Mike's. It was perfect. I should check all the rest though. Third: I started a thread on octane some time ago. The manual's recommendation of 91 octane is some kind of funky "research" number that equates to 87 octane. I'm running that and I have no knock or ping. I -want- as much combustion as I can get. Burn, baby burn. Lastly: I agree. When I was set too lean, my engine popped and farted and ran as hot as a firecracker. I put in hotter plugs and a new coil based on YOUR recommendation Bill. Whaddya mean put in "cooler" plugs?? At any rate, I only went up one heat range. If the one I pulled is any example they look great. Rich --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote: > True backfiring (flames coming out of carburetor vs muffler > explosions) is often plug wires out of order. Flame escapes cylinder > when an intake valve is open. Could be timing but would have to be WAY > off. Do a compression test to ensure valves are closing and sealing > all the way. > > Muffler explosions are usually unburned fuel. > > Are you pre-detonating when engine is hot & under load? That was my > problem. Try cooler plugs. And don't lug the engine -- with no RPM's > AND vacuum dropped spark may come too late. What octane are you > running? 91 factory spec was figured by some method other than what > our pumps use (does it translate into 87 or 89?). I can not run > reliably on less than 93. > > Re: adjusting main CO2 screw -- I've said 1000 times a rich mixture > burns cooler than a lean one. Usually get shot down when I do, but > I've got 3 melted plugs sitting on my kitchen counter right now that > prove it! (Courtesy of a vacuum leak on that side of engine -- too > much air for metered fuel, duh). What do your plugs look like? > > Bill Robertson > #5939 > > >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote: > > Walt, > > > > I'll tell you this; > > > > Fuel settings defintely have something to do with it because when I > > richen up the CO screw it largely goes away. It doesn't just do it at > > idle though. If I put enough of a load on the engine (toting uphill) > > it does it. > > > > I'm starting to think you may be right about uneven delivery. > > > > I'm painting the engine cover not the louvers. I don't even have > > louvers. They were cracked and snapped off and flew away a year ago > > during the tow home. :( > > > > Mike does wonders with paint in a can, so it can be done. > > > > Rich > > > > > > > > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote: > > > Mike was telling me about your car backfiring through the intake. > > The cause > > > of this on my car was from one cylinder running too lean off of > > idle. The > > > injector for that cylinder was delivering about half as much fuel > > as the > > > others at idle, but above 1500 RPM it was fine. When I adjusted the > > > air/fuel mixture, it caused that one cylinder to be too lean and > > the other 5 > > > to be too rich. Inspecting the plugs confirmed this along with > > watching the > > > injectors spray in test tubes. The problem with the faulty new > > injectors > > > must be that they are NOS and have rust in them. I'm curious to > > cut one > > > open and see. > > > > > > Having your timing off will also cause it to backfire through the > > intake. I > > > would have terrible luck trying to tune it by hear like Bill > > suggests. > > > There must be a procedure for setting/verifying the position of the > > timing > > > mark. > > > > > > > Question of the day: What is the best paint to use to repaint the > > > engine cover? Bumper black or semi flat 1613, or what? > > > > > > I have never been too fond of any paint that comes out of a spray > > can when > > > compared to spraying real automotive paints through a spray gun. > > Rich W > > > painted the louvers of D-rex with Krylon Semi-Flat Black, and it > > looks good. > > > I'm curious to see how it holds up. Plasti-kote Bumper Black spray > > paint (# > > > 616) seems to be a spot-on match for the black part of the > > fascias. I'm not > > > sure how well it would stick to an engine cover, though. Like Bill > > said, > > > preparation is everything. If there is any residue of oil or Armor- > > all or > > > Back-to-black then you will get fish-eye in those areas. I have > > seen too > > > many painted louvers that are mostly glossy yet mottled with fish- > > eye spots > > > where residue made the paint go thin. > > > > > > Walt Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=194081.4074964.5287182.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=170512 6215:HM/A=1732161/R=0/SIG=11p5b9ris/*http://www.ediets.com/start.cfm?code= 30509&media=atkins> click here <http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=194081.4074964.5287182.1261774/D=egroupm ail/S=:HM/A=1732161/rand=792000482> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! 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