[DMCForum] Re: Rich's latest problems...

["cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Yeah I jumped the wires at the otterstat. That was 3/4 months ago tho.
I"ll do it again this morning. I'm also going to bleed the radiator.

I'm running 20w50. I put that in because it's summer. Isn't straight
sae 30 thicker than that though? Maybe I should put that it.

I'm going to do one last oil change anyway.

I have lots of little "free-work" to do today. I'm so happy to be
wrestling with the more mundane problems.It's practically a joy.


--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> Make your own self bleeder: Cut the end off bleeder screw
> (transforming it into a barb), run 3 feet of hose to a new Tee, and
> you're done. Costs less than $5. If you don't want to mess with
> original bleeder screw, Autozone will sell one for a buck or two more.
> Threads are 10x1mm -- not common in stocked barbs this side of
> Atlantic (1/8" BSPT), but very common in bleeder screws. Only
> limitation is no room for a traditional hose clamp. Use a squeeze
> clamp, or just twist some wire to fit into groove. Hose will weld
> itself in short time anyway.
> 
> Are you saying fans work OK jumped at otterstat? If so, appears bad. 
> 
> Now that engine is running, you'll discover definition of "hot". PRV
> is all that and more. Burned my fingers enough on another car's upper
> air assembly to blister. That's why I question light weight engine
> oils some people burn. Heat of PRV should tear them up.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > That's what I'm sayin'. I did jumper the fans at the otterstat. I
> > tested this right before I did the headgaskets. I'm going to do it
> > again tomorrow to make sure I got it right. I bought the otterstat
> > from John Hervey. Maybe he'll take pity on me and send me another one
> > if I prove the first one is dead. Hopefully it's not though.
> > 
> > I will definitely buy the seals from a DeLorean vendor..
> > 
> > I do intend to buy a self-bleed kit. I'm short on cash right now
> > though. I've heard about this plastic barb...I'm going to be real
> > careful about it.
> > 
> > I -defintely- appreciate the explanation about the gauge. I think I
> > have a feel for how hot is too hot, just in case the gauge fails me.
> > 
> > I don't mind eliminating the Lambda system and electronic idle for
> > troubleshooting sake but I'm going to try to keep it after things are
> > straightend out for history's sake.
> > 
> > When ya coming up? This trip will be much less stressful. :)
> > 
> > 
> > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>
wrote:
> > > Cooling fans: when in doubt, jump 'em. Can do it at the otterstat or
> > > inside relay compartment. Spend some time studying the circuit. Is
> > > definitely one of the car's Achilles heels. Basically circuit goes
> > > from relay #24 (triggered by otterstat) through circuit breaker (40A
> > > replaceable off shelf at Autozone or Advance -- just trim off
mounting
> > > tabs), then socket #25 (imfamous fan fail -- I simply jumped,
with two
> > > 20A inline fuses for good measure), then onto the fans! According to
> > > wiring diagram otterstat is fused (#5) -- potential problem.
> > > 
> > > Sitting still in this weather fans should definitely come on.
> > > 
> > > Go ahead and rig up a self bleeder. Can do it yourself for a
couple of
> > > bucks. Is SO worth the 10 or 15 minutes. Just dump coolant in
car and
> > > drive.
> > > 
> > > Note there is a bleed line from top of radiator (passenger
side). Make
> > > sure it is clear. Unless you're replacing hose (recommended),
undo at
> > > pipe -- hose barb on radiator is FRAGILE. Cracked mine, and ended up
> > > engineering a brass replacement completely through side channel.
Will
> > > surely outlive radiator, however.
> > > 
> > > Temp sending unit isn't going to work if it's got a big air bubble
> > > under it.
> > > 
> > > Re: idle speed -- ready to try manual idle circuit yet? See why I
> > > think is important for all owners to know, even if they ultimately
> > > idle off motor? Don't want to be diagnosing it on top of other
> > > problems, eh? I'll eMail you Volvo procedure. Think you'll like it.
> > > 
> > > Injector seals are way cheaper from DeLo vendors than Advance or
> > > Autozone (watch that price on their computers -- is EACH).
> > > 
> > > Start keeping a list of vaccum leaks. Next time I'm up there we'll
> > > compare notes.
> > > 
> > > Bill Robertson
> > > #5939
> > > 
> > > >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > > > Whew...
> > > > 
> > > > I fixed the cam access plate on the head. That sealed the oil
> leak and
> > > > that one vacuum leak.
> > > > 
> > > > I then discovered the freq valve wasn't buzzing. That was simply a
> > > > contact in the RPM relay that was out of adjustment. A tweak
with a
> > > > needlenose fixed it.
> > > > 
> > > > As soon as the valve had power, my idle shot sky high.
Adjusting the
> > > > CO screw didn't really bring it down much. It either stalls or
still
> > > > revs too high.
> > > > 
> > > > I took a quick second w/the carb spray and discovered that all six
> > > > injector seals leak. Could this be responsible for the crazy idle?
> > > > 
> > > > I now noticed the engine was pretty warm. The guage was
approaching
> > > > 220 so I took a moment to bleed the cooling system. I get
periods of
> > > > fluid and periods of air. I'm not sure yet if I got all the
air out.
> > > > I'm not blowing coolant anywhere. This is good.
> > > > 
> > > > Now I noticed the dang cooling fans didn't kick on. I have a new
> > > > otterstat but I tested the connection to make sure I had things
> wired
> > > > right and I think it may be bad. This is not good.
> > > > 
> > > > However, the temp gauge dropped way back down as soon as I
bled the
> > > > cooling system. Now, I have a concern...after a while, the engine
> > > > seemed to get pretty warm again, but the guage never went anywhere
> > > > near that high again.
> > > > 
> > > > Can I trust this thing or not? I'm not keen about blowing the
engine
> > > > up again after all I did to get it back together.
> > > > 
> > > > Opinions?
> > > > 
> > > > Rich
> > > > #5335
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>
> > wrote:
> > > > > Vacuum leaks are indeed idle (low RPM) problem. And Martin G is
> > > > > correct -- fuel mixture gets adjusted rich to compensate,
> which then
> > > > > haunts you at higher RPM's (where leaks go away). That's why
> vacuum
> > > > > leaks are MPG killers.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Find them methodically anywhere air can enter engine OTHER than
> > > > > metering device (air sensor plate). On most engines this is
> > limited to
> > > > > single piece intake manifold and a few vacuum hoses. PRV is
> > different.
> > > > > Breathes internally to a degree I've never seen before. Means
> you're
> > > > > going to check things not normally sources of vacuum leaks, like
> > valve
> > > > > covers and oil pans. Note also upper air assembly alone has as
> many
> > > > > mating surfaces as rest of block.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Start by isolating engine from rest of car. Can have a vacuum
> > leak at
> > > > > far end of a hose, like power brake booster or A/C mode
switch. No
> > > > > DeLo vacuum operated accessories are needed at idle, so simply
> > > > > disconnect hoses and plug nipples. You'll hear instantly if leak
> > goes
> > > > > away (which then requires one by one analysis to find bad
> > accessory or
> > > > > connecting hose).
> > > > > 
> > > > > To find leaks on engine itself, I like to use aerosol products
> with
> > > > > pin point spray straw. Private label carburetor cleaner is
only 78
> > > > > cents at Wally World, so it's become my solvent of choice. Is
> > > > > flammable, however, so use judiciously. Ensure ignition isn't
> > arcing.
> > > > > Electric motor cleaner isn't flammable but is about 3X more
> > expensive.
> > > > > Push button and straw can be transferred to can of whatever
if it
> > > > > doesn't come with. You can also make a flex extension for
> straw from
> > > > > tiny size vacuum hose to reach backside of engine, under intake
> > > > > manifold, etc.
> > > > > 
> > > > > If solvent hits area that is vacuum tight, is no effect on idle.
> > > > > 
> > > > > If solvent hits minor leak, RPM's increase momentarily as
solvent
> > > > > seals it. Gets sucked into engine of course, so effect is
> temporary.
> > > > > 
> > > > > If solvent hits major leak, RPM's drag as it is sucked into
> > engine as
> > > > > fast as you can spray.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Started diagnosis on my PRV at the top: Fuel distributor wasn't
> > > > > totally tight against upper air assembly. Simply snugging down
> > removed
> > > > > that leak.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Working down, found leaks where U pipes mate to upper air
> assembly,
> > > > > where cold start tube mates to intake, and in most fuel injector
> > > > > seals. Intake manifold itself leaked around #5 cylinder. Had
> biggest
> > > > > leak of all in passenger valve cover caused by slightly uneven
> match
> > > > > of timing chain cover to head. Am currently mulling over
> prospect of
> > > > > removing crankshaft pully to reach leak in timing chain
cover seal
> > > > > (hey Rich, can I come visit your impact wrench...)
> > > > > 
> > > > > Is longer prospect than simply setting off a smoke bomb next to
> > car to
> > > > > see where it goes. Take it one step at a time and you'll
> eventually
> > > > > find them all. Don't forget to carry diagnosis all the way down
> > to oil
> > > > > pan -- PRV can have vacuum leak there too.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Bill Robertson
> > > > > #5939
> > > > > 
> > > > > >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "jamesrguk" <James_rg@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > > > > > Hi list,
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > My car idles like a dog and I want to fully check for vacuum
> > leaks, 
> > > > > > I get a good reading of the vacuum gauge when connected to
the 
> > > > > > intake manifold.
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > However when I pull the rubber plug out (the one that sits
above
> > > the 
> > > > > > mixture adjustment screw on the metering head) and put my
> > finger on 
> > > > > > it I can't feel/hear any suction? the car runs, all be it
badly,
> > > and 
> > > > > > the idle is terrible.
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > What is the best thing to spray around the engine bay to
detect 
> > > > > > vacuum leaks? 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > Rgds
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > James

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