[DMCForum] Re: rear brake rotors

[<mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

When I bought my car it had pretty much all the original systems on
it.  I upgraded to the P.J. Grady brake system all around-new rotors,
calipers, lines, master cylinder....there was a noticeable difference.
 The brakes were quieter and the pedal feel was more precise.  I've
put over 6,000 miles on my car since June 1, 2001 and there are no
brake issues.  No glazing, no squealing, no pedal pulsations, no
wobble whatsoever.  My hand brake works as if it were new.

One of our club members here in AZ also had with all original brake
equipment on his car.  Last year on the way to our group meeting with
Rob Grady his calipers seized on the rotors and by the time he limped
in the wheels were black from brake dust.  Since then his car
sat-until Saturday.  Rob came out to our club for the second annual
visit.  Rob, Evil Dan, myself, Ryan, and TIMMAY! tore apart the brake
system and installed Rob's full brake kit.  Again they were flawless.
 No runout, no wobble, plenty of meat to cut should they need it in
the future.

I'm 2 for 2 with Rob's brake system and I know a lot of other people
that will support it.  I've heard that the rotors will warp with
excessive torque on the lug nuts.  I've been informed that all it
takes is 60 ft. lbs. to keep the wheels secure on the D and that's
worked for me.  

Matthew

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> Today I replaced my rear brake rotors (again) and accidentally let the
> master cylinder run dry while bleeding.  So... I have to wait until
tomorrow
> to buy master cylinder bleed kit before I can get the car back on
the road.
> 
> The issue with my brakes: one of the original rear rotors was
chipped, so I
> had to replace it.  I got a new pair from PJ Grady, and they sucked
royally.
> They had excessive runout which was so bad that if I had them cut
then they
> would have been under spec.  And these were new rotors!  Interestingly
> enough, I had no problems with brake pulsation.  The runout wasn't
thickness
> variation but a matter of not having the hub parallel with the
rotor.  As
> the rotor wobbled, it pushed the brake pads apart.  This seemed to
not be a
> problem at first.  Rob told me over the phone that this wouldn't
hurt the
> calipers.  As the rotor turned, the wobble slapped the hand brake
pads and
> caused one of them to fall off.  (I'm not the first to have this problem
> with PJ Grady rotors, BTW.)  So I put on new pads and adjusted the hand
> brake with lots of play to give room for the rotor to wobble.  Soon
> afterwards the brakes feel glazed.  I take the wheels off; and sure
enough,
> there is a bluish glossy layer all over the rotor.  So I sand it off
and was
> fine for a while.  This was about a year ago.
> 
> Now fast forward to the present: the glaze is back and stopping the car
> requires much more pressure on the pedal.  So... I put another set
of rotors
> on.  These are NOS from DMCJoe while he had a half-off sale about 2
years
> ago.  One rotor has no runout that I can tell.  The other has just a
speck
> of runout -- not even worth mentioning.  Hopefully this will solve
my rotor
> glazing problem.
> 
> And the moral of the story?  Always buy your parts from DeLorean
specific
> vendors and you won't have these kinds of issues.  Oh wait!  That's
what I
> did.  So much for that idea.  Well, I have one more beer in the
fridge.  :-)
> 
> Walt


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