Have you installed the overheat protector? It will automatically bleed the air from the engine. Do not fill the coolant bottle to the top, fill it half way, you need room for the fluid to expand. Make sure that your radiator cap is the correct pressure rating. You can test the cap at stores like AutoZone or others. All that the Fanzilla does is stagger the startup and shutdown of the radiator fans. The fanzilla is fused. I noticed that when my car got heat soaked (sitting closed up in 100F all afternoon), the cooling fan breaker would trip almost immediately after startup. If the breaker trips, the fanzilla is out of commission, no "Fan Fail" warning light. The breaker supplies the power to the Fanzilla. I wrote about this quit some time ago. Forgive me Walt for pasting what I wrote on DML. Scott Mueller 002981 DOA 5031 Message: 20 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 16:48:38 -0700 (PDT) From: scottmueller<scottmueller(AT)al.freei.net> Subject: Tripin' Cooling Fans and Fanzilla As some of you may know, during the Friday cruise in Cleveland last month, my Fanzilla equipped Cooling fan circuit would trip offline. What really puzzled me was the fact that the "Fan Failed" warning light never came on. I thought perhaps that the bulb had failed. In fact, later that day, when me and my car had cooled off, I performed the test in the Fanzilla troubleshooting guide. I removed each Fanzilla fuse (20A) and the "Fan Failed" light worked. Strange you ask? So did I. The existing breaker in the circuit was cycling. Note that this breaker was upgraded to 35A after my trip to the Los Angeles expo two years ago. I checked all of the spade connectors in the circuit. They were clean and tight. The fan grounds were clean and tight. Here is the Fatal Flaw with the Fanzilla. When the existing circuit breaker opens, all power is lost to both cooling fans and the Fanzilla. Why do I consider this to be Fatal you may ask, because when the breaker opens there is no power for the "Fan Failed" warning light or the Fans. You better be scanning your gauges when driving in Hot Weather. DMC Joe posted an idea recently that suggested a jumper in place of the circuit breaker in the Cooling Fan Circuit. Since the Fanzilla has built in fuse protection for both cooling fan circuits, I installed a jumper. The jumper became extremely hot. Note, all connectors are clean and tight. I let things cool down and started with cool wiring. It turns out that the NS colored wire was heating up first, not the jumper. Since the circuit breaker/thermal trip #193 is made redundant by the fuses in the Fanzilla, I decided that I would remove it and the NO/NS wires. It turns out that the length or the NO & NS wires between #112, #193 and #191 totaled 68 inches. That's sixty eight inches. The N wire, battery hot + was moved from #112 over to replace the NS wire on #191. This takes the little gray loop of wire out of the circuit and now the only wires that get hot are the ones in the Fanzilla. By doing this, I eliminated 68" of heater wire, a thermal trip/breaker and the now the "Fan Failed" light can not be defeated. The Fanzilla does start the compressor and each fan separately as designed. Another, more complicated way to ensure that the "Fan Failed" light would work, is if there was a separate power source for that portion of the circuit. I typed this real slow, so I hope you have been able to follow along. ; ) You will need to look at the schematic diagrams and the Fanzilla Manual to see what I am describing. WARNING...WARNING......DO NOT REMOVE/BYPASS THE BREAKER IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE FANZILLA, IN FACT DO NOT USE ANY OF THIS INFORMATION IF YOU YOURSELF ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH ELECTRICAL DEVICES AND UNDERSTAND COMPLETELY WHAT I HAVE DONE TO MY CAR.. Let the debate begin. Scott Mueller scottmueller(AT)att.net 1981/002981 DOA5031/DMCNEWS -----Original Message----- From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx [mailto:BondAtomic@xxxxxxx] Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 12:07 AM To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [DMCForum] Chock one up for the heat To make a long story short, I was driving in the city when the DMC heats up. I park, and the coolant comes out the overflow. I wait, clean it up a bit, and fill it with water. I then drive home (going a good speed to keep the car cool.) and it was in operable temperatures. My question? Well, the "fan fail" light is either on/off. First-the fan fail light-that means one of the two fans isn't working, right? Or does it mean they both aren't working? OR, does it mean one isn't working, so the other one shuts off? Then, if this "fan fail" light is on, is this "fanzilla" system a failsafe device to prevent any overheating problems? I read in the tech section from DMCJoe that the cooling system is almost equivelent of having "two radiators." Then he goes on to describe air bleeding and such. So, is Fanzilla the way to go? If both fans are operating and slower speeds, will the heat stay down? By the by, just wanted to thank Walt for the major help in my troubles with the passenger door, especially with those two "evil bolts of death." Thank you all very much. John 4275 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~--> Free $5 Love Reading Risk Free! http://us.click.yahoo.com/NsdPZD/PfREAA/Ey.GAA/HliolB/TM ---------------------------------------------------------------------~-> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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