Is it safe to use the orange stuff if you are using the stock rad? Thanks.
Dom
>From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: <DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: [DMCForum] Radiator replacement?
>Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 13:48:25 -0400
>
>When I replaced my radiator, I was redoing the a/c, so I
>took the condenser out with it. I ended up taking the sway
>bar completely off to have room. Can anyone say if there is
>enough room to only need to take the sway bar loose from the
>crumple tube? If you remove the sway bar completely, you
>may need to replace some bushings. The fasteners are all
>supposed to be torqued to spec with thread-locker. Get
>ready to find that the previous bozo cross-threaded the
>fasteners holding the sway bar brackets. It's a good idea
>to presoak all the fasteners with penetrating oil. The
>shroud is held in a few places with Rivnuts which can strip.
>
>The new brass radiator is a bit thicker which causes a
>clearance issue with the fan shroud. I had to cut deeper
>notches in the shroud to fit the ends of the crumple tube.
>The thicker radiator put the fans so far back that the
>blades were hitting the ends of the crumple tubes. I fixed
>this by mounting the fans with longer bolts & stacks of
>washers. It's not the neatest job, but it works. I intend
>to replace those power hungry old clunker fans with modern
>flat ones soon. The rusty brackets that go from the top of
>the radiator to the crumple tube will need to be reshaped to
>accommodate the thicker radiator.
>
>So did you have the privilege of experiencing the wonder
>taste of antifreeze? Yum! I think they should make it a
>Gator-Aid flavor. DPNW (Toby) also sells an extra radiator
>bleeder for the top line. I bought one at Pigeon Forge, but
>haven't used it yet.
>
>Be sure to use the old green variety of antifreeze. The new
>orange stuff is not compatible with lead based solder used
>in brass radiators & heater cores.
>
>Walt
>
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